changing front fork springs
#2
RE: changing front fork springs
I did mine on the bike after changing the sliders to chrome.
[ol][*]Start with the service manual.[*]Jack it up.[*]Remove the fork tube bolts at the top (carefully, they will shoot across the room).[*]Remove and replace.[/ol]
If you're changing oil, you'll have to remove the front wheel and then the forks from the clamps. Don't forget to compress and extend the forks a few times when you add new oil.
You'll probably need two people to replace the fork tube bolts.
[ol][*]Start with the service manual.[*]Jack it up.[*]Remove the fork tube bolts at the top (carefully, they will shoot across the room).[*]Remove and replace.[/ol]
If you're changing oil, you'll have to remove the front wheel and then the forks from the clamps. Don't forget to compress and extend the forks a few times when you add new oil.
You'll probably need two people to replace the fork tube bolts.
#3
#4
#5
RE: changing front fork springs
it's true about the heavy *** top bolt taking flight.for me,it usually dings a riser, then flies straight up and lands back down on the gas tank, bouncing a couple times.
i learned to put a shop rag across the bolt/wrench and have someone hold that whilst i twist it loose
i learned to put a shop rag across the bolt/wrench and have someone hold that whilst i twist it loose
#7
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#8
RE: changing front fork springs
Would you still suggest keeping the forks on the trees if you are putting a lowering kit on it? To get the additional spring underneath the seat pipe, you have to remove the bolt at the bottom of the slider and pull the seat pipe out through the top. Can you do this while the forks are on the bike? Or, should you just go ahead and remove them. I'm going to be installing a Progressive lowering kit this weekend, so I really need to know.
#10
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