Okay,

I'm about at my wit's end. I've got an 07 FXDC with AN Big Sucker AC, Rinehart 2-2 staggered and of course a TMax with 4.6 firmware.

I've had trouble with pops/small backfires on decel from day one. I've had limited success using AFR override set at 13.5 but later learned that might not be the best configuration to get full value out of TMax.

I've recently turned off AFR overrride, cleared all my learned settings and reinstalled map 393 at James' (Zipper tech) advice. I have the decel cut on from 2000 to 2400 but I still get pops at 3100 and 2100.

I'm wondering if 393 is the best map for my configuration? I've looked at 384 and it seems to be the same map except they apparently did not richen some setting asin 393.

Also, 384 and 393 are both for FL Rinehart True Duals which I believe is a bad match for my Rinehart 2-2 staggered.

Would appreciate any and all thoughts, the pops aren't as bad as I'm probably making it sound but they are there and it frustrates me. I bought TMax because I didn't want to dyno my bike.

Anything else that might be causing the pops? I've checked to see that everything is tight and even replaced my exhaust gaskets.

Thanks,
Rick

 

I've got V&H BSS with quiet bafflesand SE Heavy breather on my 07 softail and map #401. The decel function is turned off. No popping at heavy and medium decel. The only pops that I get are in first or second gear on really light decel mainly when coasting down a hill at low rpms. This to me makes the decel function to not apply as setting it below 1500 rpms may cause response problems. At the moment the afr is in the 13.7 range for these rpms. Popping is caused from the perfect fuel ratio to air causing it to light up in the pipe so you have two choices to screw the mix up enough to stop it. Rich or leaner. In my case the pops are so light and intermitant that I probably won't bother, but setting the rpm area that mine pops at, which is from 960-1500 to about 13.2 in the afr maps would probably cure it. Runs nice and cool in traffic now so I probably won't go leaner instead of richer in this range. I'm quite happy with this map otherwise. Have not looked at your map to compare the differences but it seems like a lot of bithching with the map #s you mentioned from others in regards to popping that trying a different map may be in order. You could use the AFR override to determine the ratio needed to stop the popping as in 13.2 or whateveraccoss the board and then edit the maps where the problem rpms were from previous experience, and then turn the override off. The override function , to me seems like a good diagnostic tool, but practical for normal driving as it takes the autotune out of the loop.
Ron

 

Ron,

I did have success when the override was set to 13.5, worked just fine. I took some heat here on the board and from Zippers for using it but it worked.

I'd like to find a map that works, guess I'll call Zippers (again) and find out what else besides 393/384 there is. BTW, I have not tried 384 yet, maybe I should

Seems to me that Rinehart true duals for the FLs is a bad match for my pipes.

Thanks,
Rick

 

If you had success with 13.5 with the afr override on, then it's telling you that this mixture will cure popping in those rpms. If the afr vrs tps maps were changed in the popping range to 13.5 and the afr override turned off it should have the same effect. Being close to cruise rpms the mileage will suck at that setting. Timing may have considerable effect on popping as well, so a different map with different timing blocks, may stop popping even if the afr is the same as you have now. Lots of variables here and even the back pressure in the pipes will dictate mixture and timing changes to stop the pop. Other than the pipes our setups are not all that different. Why not give map #401 a shot. Gives me a woody every time ride with it.
Ron

 

Ron,

If it gives you a woody, I guess I'll have to try it. Gonna load it up this week and I'll let you know how it works. The V&H BSS is much closer to my pipes than the true duals. Keep your fingers crossed for me and be careful with that woody!!

Rickster

 

Koppster, listen to Ron, he's right. You need to richen the area where you're getting the popping, but only do it below 14 degrees throttle. It won't affect your mileage much at all.

 

I had the exact same issue as you - I even have an almost identical setup. I have an '07 Street Bob with Big Sucker and Bub 7 2 into 2 pipes. I also am using map 393.

I just cured my popping today.

Here is what I did.

1) I listened to ToBeFrank via a post he did awhile back (essentially saying what he just said again above).
[blockquote]
https://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=1936730
On your AFR vs TPS @ RPM pages, from 1280 RPM all the way to your rev limiter, set TPSs 14 and below rich. I have mine set to 12.5 AFR.[/blockquote]
2) I lowered the Accel Fuel default value of 10 down to 6. I was also getting a subtle pop once and awhile when accelerating. This took care of that, and I didn't loose any throttle response.

Weird thing is, I didn't expect the above to work right away - figured I'd have to get a few sessions in before it would show any signs of improvement. But I didn't get a single pop immediately. I rode for a bit, stopped for gas, rode some more, stopped and recycled the ignition, rode some more. No more popping - and trust me, I tried to reproduce them.

Give the above two things a try - unless you have an exhaust leak, I bet this will take care of your issues.

ToBeFrank - THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!

 

Ron/All,

I'm restraining my woody for a few more miles; however,......I loaded 401 yesterday and so far (25 miles) no pops or backfires. I'm going to put some more miles on it today and will follow up with the results. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

Rickster

 

Rickster: Would be interesting to compare notes on this map with similar setups. Things like cold and hot start, and general performace.
Ron

 

Ron,

I want to learn more about fine tuning so yeh, let's keep chatting about TMax.

I felt no difference in the start yesterday after switching from the 393 to the 401. Idled a little rough during the required warm up for the new map but it cleared itself within a few seconds.

Bike ran as good or better than 393 on the road. It had that loose, wiry, ready to reactfeel that I love in any motor (if that makes sense). Pulled very strong, motored like loud silk.

It did make a cough sound that got my attention, I was pulling back in the drive, blipping the throttle to appease my wild hog ego and I got a tinny cough I'd never heard (made me wonder if I have a loose heat shield). I'm keeping my ears open for repeats.

Rick

PS: The Decel feature is off per your reccomendation.