Bled brakes, dual rotors, lever engages later, would you leave it alone?
#1
Bled brakes, dual rotors, lever engages later, would you leave it alone?
2009 Fat Bob. Non-ABS. I bled the brakes for the second time Monday night. First time I bled them 3 years ago, I removed calipers, cleaned pistons, replaced pads, installed speedbleeders, bled farthest caliper from MC, then closest.
This time, just bled using the same farthest first technique. No cleaning or pads. Before, I recall, my front brake lever engaged 1/2 to 1 full inch sooner, almost right away, and had a small 'friction zone' before full engagement. Now, it engages a little later, has a larger 'friction zone' as far as I can tell, but does not come to the grip or touch my fingers on the grip at full engagement. I looked at the calipers as I was engaging the lever and the farthest doesn't seem to have a gap between pad and rotor at rest, whereas the closest has the slightest visible gap. Before I can feel resistance at the lever that gap closes. Conceptually, I believe the fluid is going to the path of least resistance, the closest caliper, and causing its pads to contact the rotor before I notice resistance at the lever. Farthest caliper does not exhibit signs of dragging. I tied lever overnight and it didn't affect anything. Brakes are 'firm' once engaged and no pumping necessary, so I believe no air in the lines. I know I can 'fix' this by cleaning the pistons in the calipers, actuating them fully back into their bores and re-bleeding. However, after riding last night. .I almost kind of like how they are now. I feel like I have more room from partial to full engagement which seems like it'd be better for preventing a lock-up.
My question: given the above would you leave it be or go mess with re-doing things? I might get used to this new lever travel and mess with it next year when I change pads, which both have plenty left on them.
Thanks,
Matt
This time, just bled using the same farthest first technique. No cleaning or pads. Before, I recall, my front brake lever engaged 1/2 to 1 full inch sooner, almost right away, and had a small 'friction zone' before full engagement. Now, it engages a little later, has a larger 'friction zone' as far as I can tell, but does not come to the grip or touch my fingers on the grip at full engagement. I looked at the calipers as I was engaging the lever and the farthest doesn't seem to have a gap between pad and rotor at rest, whereas the closest has the slightest visible gap. Before I can feel resistance at the lever that gap closes. Conceptually, I believe the fluid is going to the path of least resistance, the closest caliper, and causing its pads to contact the rotor before I notice resistance at the lever. Farthest caliper does not exhibit signs of dragging. I tied lever overnight and it didn't affect anything. Brakes are 'firm' once engaged and no pumping necessary, so I believe no air in the lines. I know I can 'fix' this by cleaning the pistons in the calipers, actuating them fully back into their bores and re-bleeding. However, after riding last night. .I almost kind of like how they are now. I feel like I have more room from partial to full engagement which seems like it'd be better for preventing a lock-up.
My question: given the above would you leave it be or go mess with re-doing things? I might get used to this new lever travel and mess with it next year when I change pads, which both have plenty left on them.
Thanks,
Matt
#2
If the lever is closer to the grip than before, it suggests you still have a little air in it. If it is safe to ride, take it round the block and find all the potholes, to shake the bike up. When you get back, turn the bars to the left, so the reservoir as highest point in the system, and repeatedly apply the lever. You don't need to apply pressure, as we are only after opening the valve, to let any air out. Hopefully you will find it has firmed up.
If not, there are bleeding tips in the DIY section.
If not, there are bleeding tips in the DIY section.
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