Cheapest tire brand you would actually run
#1
Cheapest tire brand you would actually run
Yes, I'm being a cheap *** right now. Had a couple more miles out of my rear ME880 when I picked up a 2" self taping screw on the way home today. The tire isn't going flat yet, but the screw was about an inch into the tire at an angle, and I don't trust the tube anymore.
Whats the cheapest brand tire you would run. I have a mounter/balancer, I just need something to get me through a few thousand miles until I get some cash.
So, what's the cheapest tire that's not complete junk? 90% of my miles are around town putting, rarely push my bike in turns and what not.
Whats the cheapest brand tire you would run. I have a mounter/balancer, I just need something to get me through a few thousand miles until I get some cash.
So, what's the cheapest tire that's not complete junk? 90% of my miles are around town putting, rarely push my bike in turns and what not.
#2
The general consensus is Shinko tires. They are made by a Korean company with the old Yokohama tooling. I was in a tight spot a few years ago and mounted one on my old Night Train. Personally, I had no issues with it. You're gonna get a lot of nay-sayers here, but I think it was a good tire for the $$$.
#3
#4
Kenda has been satisfactory for a couple of friends I mount tires for. Hell, I'd run them if I was in a pinch, they aren't the greatest, but they seem to wear pretty good. One of them is running a Kenda Kruz on the rear of his hardtail with 18 lbs of air, cupped pretty bad after 8K but he won't replace it til the center is worn out.
Last edited by Lakerat; 08-10-2012 at 09:24 PM.
#5
Are you saying the screw went into the tyre but didn't cause a puncture? If so it doesn't sound to me as if you need to change your current tyre. If you want belt and braces you could consider plugging the hole with a tubeless plug, then replace the tube with new, if you're worried about it.
However I would remove tyre and tube to inspect them both. If the screw didn't get through into the inside and the tube is unharmed, refit, ride on and forget!
However I would remove tyre and tube to inspect them both. If the screw didn't get through into the inside and the tube is unharmed, refit, ride on and forget!
#6
this one is a new one on me.
I get the finances are in a pinch right now, but how much cheaper are some of the above brands compared with what you want to run?
this is an honest question - so I am not trying to start anything
are the shinko's like a $50 tire and your Brand of choice is like $150? or is it much closer than that in pricing.
I get the finances are in a pinch right now, but how much cheaper are some of the above brands compared with what you want to run?
this is an honest question - so I am not trying to start anything
are the shinko's like a $50 tire and your Brand of choice is like $150? or is it much closer than that in pricing.
#7
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#9
Are you saying the screw went into the tyre but didn't cause a puncture? If so it doesn't sound to me as if you need to change your current tyre. If you want belt and braces you could consider plugging the hole with a tubeless plug, then replace the tube with new, if you're worried about it.
However I would remove tyre and tube to inspect them both. If the screw didn't get through into the inside and the tube is unharmed, refit, ride on and forget!
However I would remove tyre and tube to inspect them both. If the screw didn't get through into the inside and the tube is unharmed, refit, ride on and forget!
this one is a new one on me.
I get the finances are in a pinch right now, but how much cheaper are some of the above brands compared with what you want to run?
this is an honest question - so I am not trying to start anything
are the shinko's like a $50 tire and your Brand of choice is like $150? or is it much closer than that in pricing.
I get the finances are in a pinch right now, but how much cheaper are some of the above brands compared with what you want to run?
this is an honest question - so I am not trying to start anything
are the shinko's like a $50 tire and your Brand of choice is like $150? or is it much closer than that in pricing.
I've got probably 5K left on my front ME880 before I need to replace it, and i like replacing the front with the rear.
Ended up getting lucky and managed to fit a rear roadking tire on my bike. It's a bigger tire, around a 140 instead of my 130, but after pushing the belt guard around it seems to be working fine. I'll be back to my ME880's before the years up.
#10
On amazon.com I can get a Dunlop rear tire for my dyna for $100. With a deal like that you dont need to go much cheaper. I've run Shinko tires before but they tend to wear out faster so really what do you gain?
Check out amazon they have some great deals and customer reviews that might help you choose.
Hope this helps
Check out amazon they have some great deals and customer reviews that might help you choose.
Hope this helps