I've got a 99 wide glide and have been planning a build for when I get back from afghanistan. I already realized that what I want isn't attainable for 2k, but it was worth looking into. I'm looking at spending closer to 4k now, but definitely not over. Here is what I've put together so far....

98'' kit
.550 lift cam
10.0:1 comp
DTT ignition
Cycle shack or D&D fatcats
Clutch spring
Heads reworked to match cam
Hydraulic roller conv.
CV44 carb

My ultimate goal obviously was 100/100, I don't have a tach on my bike now so I'm not sure exactly where I ride, I do ride everywhere everyday, 2 up and solo, quick through town and long weekend rides. Given I don't know the exact rpm I stay at I'd like to just aim at having around 100 lb ft from 2.5k to 6/6.25k. I've seen some 95'' kits with good heads pull off close to that and started wondering on the reliability of 98'', I've seen a shop post it's not a good idea, then turn around in another post and offer it as an option.....What do you guys think, I want to do this once, and do it right.

 

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...4thou is a nice little bankroll to work with here. doing labor yourownself.

my 88 first went to 95 now it is 121.

both times I used the headquarters packages.

cams and heads etc matched to perform well

my advice is to chose a shop and follow their recommendation on matching components.

HQ, or tMan, off the top of my head, are good choices
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Mud, what exactly has changed from each build? Is the bike any less comfortable to ride? Did the gas mileage dramatically decrease? Was there a considerable difference in power in the lower end? I hear quite a few people say that they can't tell a seat of the pants difference in the lower rpm's. I had a Sportster that was 100hp/100ft/lbs and it was pretty easy to ride, but it sucked keeping the Super E dialed in correctly throughout the year.

 

That's great advice. I went from 88" to 95" to 107" and now really happy with the 117". I may have used different parts than Mud, but the most important thing is to match components that will work together. Unless you have the expertise, find a shop with the experience and track record and follow their suggestions.

 

Tman is actually high on my list, especially since he'll be pretty local to me and can tune my bike to his heads etc.....

That's one of the issues I saw a good shop say not to go 98'' then turn around and say they do it.....it's kind of confusing cause I would like to go 98'' other than the fact that if something goes wrong and I need a new piston, I'll have to wait for the custom piston made for that shop, not just be able to grab a 95'' from HD anywhere I am. And I've read that 98'' kits have heat issues, but haven't read any horror stories behind that from first hand experience. There are some horror stories about nikisil which is what Tman uses in his 98'' kits.....I'm still waiting to hear from Tman on that issue

 

I don't have any experience with the 98" kit. I do know that 100/100 with a 95" is an attainable goal. It is also a reliable build when done right. It's a matter of choosing the right parts, working with the right shop, and proper maintenance.

 

make sure you add pressure realeases to your list i just did 95 build, because i wanted the reliablity factor i am pushing 96 hp and 98 torque, actual to rear wheel, numbers can be decieving you can have different techs pull different numbers on same machine i have had mine done at local dealer and indy, both with in 3 hp and 5 torque

 

wideglidebob: good call, I had forgotten to list that but yes, comp. releases will be included, and maybe even a better starter just to avoid any potential problems. And I've read some interesting articles on dyno's. So I know what you are talking about there, even my bike guy now has warned me about the little "dynojet" button.....and not adjusting the reading.

Tman performance recommended stage 3 heads, 98'' kit, 625 cams, 10.5:1 comp, and the cycle shacks he says will be fine......sweet just gotta wait for more info on the nikisil....

 

IMO, find a good porter, port the heads, 9.8:1 with a Andrews 37 cam (great all around cam!) and you will be right at 100/100 or very close, and have a motor that will run on crappy fuel if necessary. Spending a ton of cash on a 100" or less engine will just get you frustrated if you dont hit that magical number. You might not notice 3hp up or down on the seat dyno.


Two things will happen, you will either be really happy with it, or you will go back in for more......Those same two things will happen if you do a high dollar 95/98" or a budget 95/98".

We build Joe Knapps 95" for like $1500 including a dyno break in and tune.

 

Thats a pretty agressive build. FYI the cycle shacks are a nice choice. They sound great and make very good power.