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Twin Cam Motors Twin Cam 1998 thru 2017

Time for a fresh build!

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  #11  
Old 06-25-2024, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoTomFx
They didn't seem to have a binding point but I also haven't gotten back to it and removed the head bolts and pistons to be able to test it more freely. I will have to report back with some pictures when I get to completely disassemble it.
What I meant was once you have jugs and pistons off see rods don't fall as fast as they should. Not easy to pick up on, someone showed me.

Stand them up and see if they fall again hard to quantify

​​​​​​
 
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Old 06-25-2024, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohio HD
What Max is saying, and he's right, the blue area you see is from the manufacturing process where they hardened the rod in that area. This is 100% normal.

Before you take the cases apart, you should check the crankshafts runout on the pinion shaft. If you have the tools also the sprocket shaft. Maybe the crank is ok.

Also a chirping sound can be the roller on one of the lifters going bad and not the crank. Check them thoroughly. Just because you're replacing them, you still need to know what is what.
Oooff I thought the blueing was abnormal.. embarrassing... Lmao

Checked the run out on the pinion side, had 6 thousands. Lifters were all very good.
 
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  #13  
Old 06-25-2024, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoTomFx
Oooff I thought the blueing was abnormal.. embarrassing... Lmao

Checked the run out on the pinion side, had 6 thousands. Lifters were all very good.
You also need to measure the rod specs as Max laid it out. And feel for rough or tight spots when rotating the assembly by the rods.
 
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Old 06-25-2024, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
How much play? Over 0.002" up and down?? Front rod can move side to side 3/32" and still be good..
Originally Posted by Rounders
What I meant was once you have jugs and pistons off see rods don't fall as fast as they should. Not easy to pick up on, someone showed me.

Stand them up and see if they fall again hard to quantify

​​​​​​
Just got around to pulling the head studs and pistons off so I could operate it much more smoothly. The front connecting rod had I would say about a 1/4" of side to side play in the 12-3 o'clock range and started to bind up/hit a rough spot at about 10 o'clock.
 
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Old 06-25-2024, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoTomFx
Just got around to pulling the head studs and pistons off so I could operate it much more smoothly. The front connecting rod had I would say about a 1/4" of side to side play in the 12-3 o'clock range and started to bind up/hit a rough spot at about 10 o'clock.
Well, I think that 1/4 is a bit optimistic. But tight spots means rebuild or replace the crank.
 
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  #16  
Old 06-25-2024, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohio HD
Well, I think that 1/4 is a bit optimistic. But tight spots means rebuild or replace the crank.
New one should be in by Friday!
 
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Old 06-26-2024, 06:18 AM
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New crank by Friday? New bearings too?





How many miles?
 
Last edited by Rounders; 06-26-2024 at 06:20 AM.
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Old 06-26-2024, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Rounders
New crank by Friday? New bearings too?





How many miles?
​​​​​​I'm hoping the crank gets delivered tomorrow but should be in by Friday. Ordered from my local shop so I can't track it lol. And new bearings as well. Just about 31k
 
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Old 06-26-2024, 11:09 AM
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31k and your crank failed?
 
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  #20  
Old 06-26-2024, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TacoTomFx
​​​​​​I'm hoping the crank gets delivered tomorrow but should be in by Friday. Ordered from my local shop so I can't track it lol. And new bearings as well. Just about 31k
I took out a crank in one of my bikes at a little higher mileage, around 34k I think it was. This is what the oil looked like when I drained it.
I do however ride like I'm trying to murder the motor.

 
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