09 up pan has baffle built into the pan. Riveted down. No springs. Uses same gasket. Fits both 5 speed and 6 speed transmission cases. Only downside I can see besides cost is if you ever have to clean out the newer style pan. May be difficult to get all the crap out without drilling out rivets.

Pull the OEM pan assembly out and you decide. Some say it's not that big of a deal. For me without a lift table at the time was a major pia. I ended up breaking the OEM baffle assembly on my 03 trying to get it out. Impatience on my part I'm sure. Installed an 09 pan. Back in 09/10, you could get the new style pan for around $200. They have since raised the price

 

I have pulled the pan with jack. And then a car jack to make more clearance.

I used the hylomar on the first one I did.
​​​​The tough part was sliding in with goop. Last one I did no goop. People and mechanic said don't need it.

One person told me just to pull tranny. But that is work too.

Doing it on a table might be tough,getting under it.

 

I know; first time I had to R/R the pan on my '02 FLHT, I replaced it with the '09 up pan and converted the exhaust to the '09 cross under system. Removed a ton of heat off my right leg.

Easy to R/R the '09 up baffle. As tdrglide says, drill out the rivets and replace with self tapping screws. Time consuming but if metal is circulating in the oil, the baffle has to come out to ensure all swarf has been removed.

 

Thank you all for the tips. A used pan on e-bay is in the $95 range if you look around. I may go that way..

HOWEVER !!!

The Harley Twin Cam From HELL has now presented me with a NEW PROBLEM ! Isn't that just soooo Special ???
The oil by-pass plunger, the oil pressure regulator valve, is stuck. It won't come out. First I tried a magnet. Nope. Then I tried a metric tap ( just with my fingers ya unerstan... I didn't want to distort the OD. ) Nope. I then cut a rubber washer and, with suitable flat washers, sealed the oil discharge side of the pump flange and put 100PSI air to it. Nope. That sucker is stuck.

I'm going to search around the forum for some ideas. This post is in the way of a rant. I'm just getting really frustrated with all the broken stuff I'm having to do.

 

I think I'm going to clean it all out with carb cleaner and compressed air. When I'm satisfied it is clean and oil free I will put a dab of silica epoxy in the bottom of the plunger with a syringe and insert the frayed end of a stainless aircraft cable in the epoxy. When it has cured, it will be the best anchor for the cable to extract the plunger. If that fails, I'll probably have to condemn the cam plate. This is probably the source of the oil pressure issue in the first place.

 

Changed my mind. I can't put any rotational force on the plunger to twist on it if I use aircraft stainless wire. I have a metric bolt that is about 5 inches long. Its been in my bolt drawers for probably 30 years. It came out of a Honda cb750 front wheel. I figure I have no plan for it, ever. I'm going to grind two flats on the sides and use a dab of steel filled JB weld and glue it into the plunger. I'm out of the good epoxy anyway. I'd have to use that dime store 50/50 epoxy otherwise. Not good.
Also, the JB weld is stiffer. Its less likely to drool around and stick the plunger in the bore if there is a miscalculation about the volume needed

 

I was thinking about using a bolt but thought the wire cable was a good idea..

IIRC the CB750 boll is 8 x 1.25x about 115mm. Maybe dab some on the end and some on the threads then stand it up with bolt sticking out.. JB takes a few hours to set and will flow down into the bottom of the relief valve..

If you can find 3/8 aluminum rod, mount a piece in a drill and file a taper in the end with a coarse bastard file. Tap that in to wedge it.. If that don't work try a real thin layer of crazy glue on the end where the mark is and try again.

 

I sold my metal lathe when I retired. If I still had it I could have some fun with this. In about an hour I could make a puller similar to the puller used for the inner cam bearings. It would be cool. No lathe, no tool...

 

I like Max's crazy glue idea but I think I would sacrifice one of my magnet's. A dab of crazy glue on the end of the magnet and a good 15-20 minutes for a sure bond and if that sucker doesn't come out, start searching Ebay for a used cam plate.

 

In a PERFECT world, I would drop a 4 1/2 inch aluminum rod in my lathe and drill a 1/8 hole all the way through. I would then cut a slot in the bandsaw one inch long through one end. Then I would pinch the slot I cut, closed, and tig it to stabilize it. It would then be cut down to the inside diameter of the oil relief piston, after which the tig weld would be removed. I would take a 1/8 welding rod, stripped of flux, and taper 1/2 inch of one end. The slotted end of the aluminum rod would be inserted into the piston, then the tapered welding rod would be tapped gently into the aluminum rod bore, expanding the end and locking it into the piston, which could then be twisted and pulled till it came out.....

In MY WORLD I spent an hour trying to figure out where I lost the JB Weld...