Not really what this thread is about, but 5 decimal places (to the right)? Really? ... one hundred-thousandths resolution?



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Thank you for calling out my measurement snafu, Harley-ish and Max,

Narrator: Vic's face rapidly turns a sweaty shade of magenta. Vic has a four place mic. Vic suddenly realizes that if he wants to showboat with a magical five place mic, perhaps he should run off to the Kiddies forum... The ADULTS here don't want to listen to his B--- S--t. He now runs off the stage to redo his measurements

 

Real Numbers:

Ahem... I did some work measuring. It is somewhat awkward due to the scoring on the bushing surface. It is also oval and not circular. It is said that if you have one clock, you always know what time it is. If you have a bunch of clocks, you never know what time it is.

The tight measurement was in the .8532 to .8534 range, .8534 being the most repeated measurement.
The loose measurement was in the .8538 to .8541 range. .8538 being the most repeated measurement.
I threw out the odd measurements as being flawed.

Maximum is .8545.
I think the bush can be reused

I apologize for the screwy numbers, you deserve better reporting, and I need to tighten up my game.

 

I'm ready to put it all back together. But... I'm not sure if I should not try to center the cam plate bushing on the crankshaft. Perhaps I'm nit-picking. If, in fact, it is not centered, should I get new dowel pins ? At some point it did rub against the crankshaft. That evidence is clear. How can I figure out if they are still touching ? I suppose the .0015 feeler gauge could be squeezed in there... maybe. I'm not looking for a clearance measurement, just to see if there is, in fact, clearance.
I'm gonna have to think about this for a spell.

 

No and don't worry about it.. Some are off.. Dowel pins won't make any difference..

 

Thanx Max, Your analysis is about the best so far. The pump I took out is an original OEM pump. It was never changed. Apparently, the owner(s) may have just cleaned out the cam chest and put in new tensioners and possibly new cam chains. They may have pulled the oil pan too. I can't know what they did because they left in the damaged oil pump and possibly never cleaned out the oil bypass valve. The lifter bores in the case are perfect. Mirror bright without a trace of visible damage. That would seem to indicate the oil filter did it's job. I have no choice but to do the oil pan or debris in the pan will start this whole mess all over again. I have the new pump.
Haven't installed it yet.

Max said......

1. The first thing you need to do is make sure the oil tanks is clean.
2. Second you need to check the filter and see how plugged up it is..
3. If not too bad look at the lifter bores. If they are clear then chances are that none of the swarf made it back into the motor..
4. You need to clean out the oil passages staring at the oil pump to the tank, from the tank back to the pump, from the pump to the filter.
5. If all look like they can be cleared up, try a new oil pump..
6. Fill with cheap oil.. Walmart stuff is fine.
7. Change the oil in 100-500 miles and cut open the filter. If small amount of swarf, you are likely good..

I should have started this thread before I took it all apart.
I've been reviewing everything I can find and the first thing I should have done is pull the oil pan. The FIRST thing Max told me to do, Now I have to pull the rear wheel and probably the rear engine mounts and take off the pan. I'll be able to blow out the supply and return lines with the pan off. Then, new pan gasket, new oil, new filter, I thought this bike was a good deal. I'm over $1500 in repairs and I still have more to do.

 

I don't recall if you have the service manual for your bike but if you don't be advised that the R/R of the early oil pan is a PITA. The rear wheel does have to be removed but the rear engine mount is the connection of the drive train to the swing arm and not removed. I have attached an image of the pan and associated parts; note part #25; there are two of these springs. The apply pressure to the baffle to keep it in place at the bottom of the pan and dealing with them when replacing the pan is tricky; very easy to damage the new pan gasket, so just a suggestion, get two pan gaskets.

 

I have the factory manual. I appreciate the tips djl ! I'm still trying to think up excuses not to do this...

 

Or an 09- up oil pan if money allows. They are interchangeable and so much easier to install.

 

TDRglide, this is interesting. The 09 is a 6 speed. Same - same ? How is it eaier. Seems to be missing the springs. That would be a blessing for sure.