To the OP..

Here is what I see.

You got a bike that has a relatively new oil pump and tensioners where the pump was trashed.

Alignment won't be the issue. More than likely issues were caused by residual trash in the motor / oil tank..

1. The first thing you need to do is make sure the oil tanks is clean.
2. Second you need to check the filter and see how plugged up it is..
3. If not too bad look at the lifter bores. If they are clear then chances are that none of the swarf made it back into the motor..
4. You need to clean out the oil passages staring at the oil pump to the tank, from the tank back to the pump, from the pump to the filter.
5. If all look like they can be cleared up, try a new oil pump..
6. Fill with cheap oil.. Walmart stuff is fine.
7. Change the oil in 100-500 miles and cut open the filter. If small amount of swarf, you are likely good..

Simply replacing the pump and hoping for the best ain't a good idea.

 

This thread isn't dead yet ??
OK. In appreciation for all you guys that chimed in here, I will explain my, " decide ". It is unlikely, but perhaps it will clarify the decision matrix for some future reader. If I make a mistake, I'm sure the hyper vigilant will swoop in to correct my unforgivable heresy. I will do my best to define the starting point , hereafter referred to as " The Scene of the Crime ", what I found, what it means, and give a coherent conclusion. I will also prattle on about all kina stuff and have fun. I will give outrageous mechanical opinions without providing evidence I can even tie my own shoes. Because I can... Tie my own shoes... Been doin it since I wuz 30.

I have a 2004 Ultra Classic 88TC. Basically stock. 47,000 on the clock. It has had three owners that I am aware of. First one took good care of it as far as I can see. Second one beat the S--t out of it and did his own "maintenance". Then traded it to owner Three for a used pickup truck. The third owner made it the best looking bike I think I've ever owned. Ahem. Beauty is skin deep they say and in this case...

It needed tires, that was reflected it the price. While installing the new sneakers, I found the drive belt was cut almost it two. In for a penny, in for a pound. Got a new rear wheel sprocket/pulley and belt. That means the primary side had to come off. OK. Pulled all that " stuff " and found the inner primary bearing had been beaten on with a hammer. He had driven the shaft mounted race ALMOST flush with the sprocket nut. I bought the special puller and by thinning the horse shoe plate on the belt sander, I could just squeak it in under the race and pull it off. I saved it to used as a device to hold the rollers open to slide the new roller bearing over the new race. Of course, the new primary was installed with gentile pressure from just my fingertips. No hammer required !

I am aware that if impact type maintenance techniques have been employed, the next bearing " in line" may have been compromised as well. Miraculously, it seems that when the roller bearing race slid deeper onto the transmission shaft as a result of that unwarranted beating, it may have saved the transmission bearing. I spun the shaft carefully, probably for 10 to 15 minutes, on two different occasions, checking for any faint trace of roughness or flat spots and found none.
At 40K miles, new motor mounts are recommended, so I got those too. I have the exhaust system 1/2 off so I desided to check the cam chain tensioners. They, at least, looked close to perfect. I knew they had been attended to when I bought the bike because it had the correct push rod covers that are used with the adjustable rods. They are even Harley tensioners. Got the Harley number on them n everythin ! The exhaust system was gently removed with a hammer by owner #2. Probably the same hammer he used to destroy the inner primary bearing, I reckon. I grit my teeth and put it back on. I'll fix it later.

So it all goes back together. A quick tip, probably old news for you guys, you can use 8 foot florescent tubes to align the wheels. They are really straight. Of course that's when I discover the front motor mount has disintegrated too. ( sigh ) . Installing the rear wheel revealed that the rear brake pads were shot. ( what
the hell ! ) More new parts.

At Last ! JOY ! Got my plates, got my insurance, got my new helmet, got my new leather jacket ! ( I don't fit in the old one. Musta shrunk. ) and I'm ready to ride.
Best 67 miles in years ! Engine seems kinda noisy tho... Check the oil pressure after a bit. It started out OK, but now its about 20 to 22 psi. That seems kinda wrong. I seem to recollect lifters should be changed at 45K miles. K... Lets do that.

Stand by for chapter two. It's late and I'm outa steam tonight.

 

What the hell. I used at least five paragraphs here that didn't show up !

 

There is a section in the manual on alignment, but never done it. Curoius what you did? For adjusting new belt? When I put my new belt on at 90k, I left it where it was. Bought the bike at 7k, and never adjusted.

When I replaced stabiolizer links, put them in same dimmension, as factory. Motor mounts, just tighened them in too. No adjustment when mounting tranny on these bikes.

Not saying wrong, just asking why you aligned, and maybe something I missed.

I think max made some good points, flushing, run some cheap oil through and change Inspect . I get your point you don't ride much, and are not worried too.


Still curious what made you think, oil pump was misaligned, not that it was not.

 

Check your Y on your exhaust, I was told that can crack when motor mount goes bad.

 

Ok few more things..

What's the oil pressure at 3000 RPM.. If it is still low, try a mechanical gauge.

Based on what you wrote, the current pump may be OK.

If someone pounded the inner primary bearing race on the shaft with a hammer, you will need to remove the race, pull the trapdoor on the tranny and replace the mainshaft bearing.. It may feel OK but is likely shot.. You can try pushing on the mainshaft while turning slowly but still may not feel anything.

One of the things about creating posts.. If you waste too much time writing say more than a few hours, the message becomes stale and will be rejected by the software. You can save the contents of the current message box by pressing control-A then control-C. Refresh the screen then place the cursor back in the box and press control-V.

 

You copy and paste into an email, and then past back later too, or word doc.

 

Been there, Done that ... had to learn that the hard way. (On the longest post I've ever written )

 

This is not Chapter two. Just a quick note . I really appreciate every reply to this thread. The nifty part of being on a forum is meeting like-minded individuals and forming community. Max Headroom nailed the correct way forward, Spanners39 gave me some solid encouragement and another way forward. I'm kinda going 1/2 n 1/2 on the two approaches. I have COPD , I'm 70 years old and I will not be riding in 5 years. Building a motor that will last 30,000 miles is not necessary. I project about 900 miles this year, 750 next year then 500, then 200 0r 300 then ? My old man couldn't walk across the room when he was 78. I know where this goes.
I learned some cool stuff from my dog. I noticed he never sits in the corner fretting about life's existential isolation. For him, every day is the best day ever and all he wants to know is, are there any more treats? Best teacher ever. Chapter two will suffer a slight delay, I need to process some pics from my phone, to my e-mail, to my computer, to here. Pics are everything. My Best to All.

Hurray ! My bearings and oil pump are here !
rr

 

Dogs are God's grandest creation!