I see what you are saying and that is correct. However, When you put the compensator back on in my last picture after making the test for nut engagement and start tightening the nut bolt, the compensator spring hits the face of the fingers on 4 that drive up the ramp on 3.
That pushes sprocket 3 over also and the finial squash completes the locking up leaving the sprocket free but pinned toward the motor against space and alternator wall. The give between 3 and 4 which is the 4 running in and out on 2.
Don't let the factory sketch fool you. Item 4 internal spline runs on item 2. The scale of the attachments is wrong. (look at my actual bike picture to see that).
In my attachment, 5 compensator's outer spring presses 4 forced back holding 3 the sprocket against the back wall of 2 inner spine extension.
Item 2 takes torque to 1 spacer and completes the final 165 or so foot-pounds of tightening against the alternator wall against the spacer that the seal runs on.
The give in the drive (compensation) is 4 running in and out. The sprocket stays pushed to the rear to maintain chain alignment driven by 4.
It is hard to see and visualize this. But when my spline first stripped, it charged fine till slipping wore a step over 1/32" into the alternator rotor letting pressure from the compensator push the sprocket that far over.
The rear sprocket outer edge started nipping chain links from sprocket misalignment.
I at first just thought my alignment was off. Thats when I found out no spacer item 1 were available in different thickness anymore.
When I tried to just pull sprocket fwd, it was held back by presssure from 4 fingers. And from this pressure wore that face groove in the alternator rotor.
Note that the above sketch is not all to scale. Item 4 sliding finger cam is actually bigger than shown and the internal spline runs on item 2 shaft extension spline. Internal spline in 2 is on crankshaft spline
I miss understood your original statement. You were saying if the nut wasn't clamping, then all you had was the comp spring..
The OP has removed, cleaned, applied red Loctite and retorqued the comp and all was well until the comp nut came loose again; see his OP in the Dynaglide section. So, shortening the comp nut is and has been the fix. The MoCo did, at one time, offer shims to address this issue; .030", .060" and .090" IIRC as well as issue a tech bulletin on the problem.
I have seen "ring shims" on Mc Master Carr that have a 1.125" ID and are .030" thick; the comp nut OD is 1.135". A few passes around the ID of the ring shim to open up the ID by .010" would make the ring shim work for the OP. I know, it's a bit of a "caveman" solution but if he can't find a local machine ship to shorten the comp nut, "caveman" or not, it is a solution.
I have attached a clear copy of the diagram previously posted above.
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Out of curiosity, I just checked the Tech Tip that mentions the stacking problem (TT122, dated 10/29/03). It suggests using a #24033-70 shim under the head of the comp nut. I looked and there are numerous #24033-70 shims available on eBay.
I'd rather have a machine shop shorten the comp nut, but the recommended shims seem to still be available.
From TT122:
If the nut seems tight there may be a stack up issue preventing it from achieving full clamp load. Try adding a 24033-70 shim under the head of the compensating nut (p/n 40392-91) and re-assemble as described above.
04-27-2024, 11:31 AM
