You were warned in your post in the Dynaglide section that if you did not shorten the comp nut, it would likely come loose, and apprently it did. Why not shave .030" off the comp nut, re-torque to the proper spec with red and it won't come loose, again.

 

lets call that lesson fkin learnt 😂 shall do it properly

 

question, I don’t have access to a lathe, how tf can I shorten the nut hahah. I do have a bunch of washers on hand though if using that is an alternative

 

Don`t use a step tool to lock the primary, use a locking bar.

 

You need to remove the nut and make sure the alternator rotor has not stripped the spline. If it does, it will slip only being driven by the compensator springs. Wears a face groove. This will also require the nut to have to screw on further than threads may allow.

If the spline is good, trial fit it all without the compensation pack on and dry fit nut to make sure it closes up the gap smaller than the thickness of the back wall of the compensator.

If someone has used nonstock parts like an alternator rotor, there may be an issue. I have only checked three and the nut screwed plenty far.

See attached pictures to explain better.

Measure it. Don't just cut to guess. The nut can also have dried hard loctite in the internal threads. It's hard to pick out. If you don't have a 90-degree scribe, you may need a new nut. I have access to lot's of taps and didn't have this fine thread one. Had a thread comb but picked worked better






The face groove and splines are gone. The dealer fixed mine twice before I finally gave up on them just retightening it. It took 15,000 miles running like that before the sprocket got so far off, the chain was clicking on the sprocket from misalignment in a hard slow 360 turn.

Trial fit without compensator. The gap behind the bolt nut should be less than the back wall of the compensator. All three I have checked with factory stuff were way less. Note that sometime before Harley went to standard parts, they used to make a bunch of shims. From 04, only one size was used. Think .250



My male spline was also damaged by the alternator rotor. I rolled enough material on it to make a lock no shake in the new rotor. I left the center of OD of the spline with apx. a 1/16" wide area to center. If it can shift back and forth, it will cause the nut bolt to loosen if you hard engine brake downshifting.

I was able to flip the worn grooved spacer 180 to get a new area for the new seal to run in.

 

If stripped it will not be driven by the comp springs. It will be driven by the stack up of the inner spacers and the base of the comp. Base of the comp has splines to the crank. Inner spacer does not..

 

Any machine shop can shorten the comp nut; they all have the equipment.

 

I see what you are saying and that is correct. However, When you put the compensator back on in my last picture after making the test for nut engagement and start tightening the nut bolt, the compensator spring hits the face of the fingers on 4 that drive up the ramp on 3.

That pushes sprocket 3 over also and the finial squash completes the locking up leaving the sprocket free but pinned toward the motor against space and alternator wall. The give between 3 and 4 which is the 4 running in and out on 2.

Don't let the factory sketch fool you. Item 4 internal spline runs on item 2. The scale of the attachments is wrong. (look at my actual bike picture to see that).

In my attachment, 5 compensator's outer spring presses 4 forced back holding 3 the sprocket against the back wall of 2 inner spine extension.

Item 2 takes torque to 1 spacer and completes the final 165 or so foot-pounds of tightening against the alternator wall against the spacer that the seal runs on.

The give in the drive (compensation) is 4 running in and out. The sprocket stays pushed to the rear to maintain chain alignment driven by 4.

It is hard to see and visualize this. But when my spline first stripped, it charged fine till slipping wore a step over 1/32" into the alternator rotor letting pressure from the compensator push the sprocket that far over.

The rear sprocket outer edge started nipping chain links from sprocket misalignment.

I at first just thought my alignment was off. Thats when I found out no spacer item 1 were available in different thickness anymore.

When I tried to just pull sprocket fwd, it was held back by presssure from 4 fingers. And from this pressure wore that face groove in the alternator rotor.


Note that the above sketch is not all to scale. Item 4 sliding finger cam is actually bigger than shown and the internal spline runs on item 2 shaft extension spline. Internal spline in 2 is on crankshaft spline

 

What I think he is implying is the distance of the face of the hex to the end would allow the end to hit the spline face on the crank before it tightened. All three I have seen don't even get near it. Now it may have caked Loctite up in the end. That will keep it from going far enough.

I call 6 a nut bolt but why it's made that way is it centers 5 compensator before locking in place.

If you check it like I show, you are going to know if you need to clean threads or shorten end. As far a cutting-off end, that is not what locks it.




This old out-of-focus sketch shows either facing the end or shimming the front of the nut. However, this was probable for non-OEM parts. If you find you need to do this, measure to make sure and for sure make sure your sprockets are within 1/32 or less in alignment measured off the back finished face of the inner primary

Sorry about the bad sketch. All I have.

 

The OP has removed, cleaned, applied red Loctite and retorqued the comp and all was well until the comp nut came loose again; see his OP in the Dynaglide section. So, shortening the comp nut is and has been the fix. The MoCo did, at one time, offer shims to address this issue; .030", .060" and .090" IIRC as well as issue a tech bulletin on the problem.

I have seen "ring shims" on Mc Master Carr that have a 1.125" ID and are .030" thick; the comp nut OD is 1.135". A few passes around the ID of the ring shim to open up the ID by .010" would make the ring shim work for the OP. I know, it's a bit of a "caveman" solution but if he can't find a local machine ship to shorten the comp nut, "caveman" or not, it is a solution.

I have attached a clear copy of the diagram previously posted above.


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