OK, so I'm installing a Jagg oil cooler. I'm at the point where you remove the bolt that the filter screws onto on the original fitting on the engine and install the Jagg fitting. Any TC88B owner will recognize this.




I've tried to loosen this with the appropriate socket to no avail. In trying, the socket slipped off the admittedly skinny nut. You can see the scar.... I really don't want to round this off, because it would entail a trip to the shop and a likely pricey fix.

I gave it a dose of PB Blaster and I'll try again in a few days - I'm out of the house for a bit.

Does anyone have any further suggestions as to a course of action? TIA!

 

For shallows like that you need a non chamfered socket, preferably 6 point.

 

If you only have a chamfered socket, find yourself a grinder, belt sander, or band saw, and shave off the face to give you a crisp edge that can bite that shallow nut.

 

^^^^^^ and a little heat on the area (heat gun not torch) as it might have loctite on it.

 

Those 2 plus take a small ballpeen and punch and tap on the bolt itself. Steel bonds to the the aluminum. You need to pop it free.

 

Heat if necessary since it probably has the dry coat thread locker on it. It's not Loctite. It's a two part epoxy that's encapsulated.

That's what assembly lines use.

​​​​​​PB Blaster is the best, but it won't work on epoxy. Nor really even work on dried Loctite.

You will need to grind a quality 6 point IMPACT socket flat.

A good impact wrench and flat impact socket will pop it free. That's the last thing I have ever wanted to come loose however. I would not hit it with a manual impact you hit with a hammer.

Keep in mind, if you break that casting, that's a new short block repair.

Certain things are best left to someone who has done it before.

Is your's different than this one. It used that as is and appears he only removed oil filter.

Second video says why it's not needed but I can't hear well enough to understand him. Is yours wrong size thread or thread length?

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Second video..

 

Electric impact driver. This has become my favorite tool- worth every penny.

 

All great advice above - thanks! Besides the PB Blaster, I will incorporate the other methods. JP, those install vids are good but don't directly address my particular problem, but otherwise are spot on. Lucky me, my BIL has an impact driver, so he's coming out next week and we'll give 'er a try. He says his sockets are flat-faced.

I looked at electric impact drivers online for future reference, and will likely go with the B&D unit - it gets good reviews. Can one have too many tools? SWMBO approves, says if I need it, I should have it.

 

Well, late last week I juiced the nut with PB Blaster and let it sit for a few days. Last night when I came home I gave it another shot, waited a bit, and tapped the thing a few times to see if that would help.

IT DID!




Visible is the factory goop that I had to break through. I didn't have to resort to heat or impact tools/grinding down a socket to get it flat-faced. (I did a perfunctory search and didn't find a 7/8" flat faced deep socket online, not to say there's no such animal, but none were evident.) I reveled in my success and decided to let it rest until the morning.

Anyway, today I'll proceed with the install. Hopefully the rest of it won't find too many more roadblocks.

Ride safe!

 

I made a few by facing off on a lathe. I've never seen a factory one. It would be a special.

What is the difference in that one you show you removed and the one in the oil cooler kit?