Hey guys I'm going to do the cam tensioner pad replacement with cyco and adjustable push rods. Im having trouble finding a kit (if it exist) and would love your input on what parts to buy for this. Im not ready for Hydro upgrade or cams (that I want later)at this time so figure peace of mind on pad replacements. Adjustable push rods for lower labor now and future repairs. No problems with the bike in this area that I am aware of as I am just purchasing it this week but I'm nervous about the tensioners so gonna change before riding season.

 

Tensioner pads and intall instructions https://twincamtensioner.com/
S&S Quick Install pushrods or HD Tapered Quick Install (PN 18404-08) pushrods, don't have the PN for the S&S pushrods but these are the only two I have ever used. The HD pushrods come with o-rings, tubes and clips.

Suggest you get the HD service manual for your bike and read the appropriate section(s) before starting. The cam plate and cams have to be removed to replace the tensioners which very likely will mean the outer cam bearings will have to be replaced. Also search "oven/freezer" method to R/R cams.

 

And also replace the inner cam bearings with Torrington bearings.

Keep track of your lifters so you install them in the same place and direction as before.

Quick install push rods are very convenient, but the regular S&S ones can be installed without removing the rocker arms by removing the lifter covers.

 

@SwedishMeatball @djl Why is it that the bearing need to be done on this job? Is it a while your in there kinda thing or the bearings are problematic especially at this age? I have heard about it. I don't have a press but can probably get creative one the outer but the inner..... ill look but is their a way around a specialized tool?

Any suggestions on service manuals? so far I only found one option and it was 2006 not 05 and was 150$

 

It is a while you are there kind of thing, but a quite good one.

The original bearings have plastic cages keeping the needles in position, and they can fail with catastrophic consequences. The Torrington bearings are filled with needles without plastic separators and are very unlikely to fail.

You do need a special tool for removing and installing them, I have always managed to rent or borrow them, you could check with a local workshop or motorcycle club maybe.

 

Sometimes the cams will fall out of the early cam plates without pressing, in which case you can reinstall them by freezing the cam/bearing assembly, heating the cam plate and dropping the cams back in the plate, just have to be sure timing marks on the cam sprockets are aligned. Depending on mileage, you might leave the inner bearings alone. I have seen well intended guys screw up the R/R of the inner bearings and end up with bearing rollers falling into the crank case and, in that situation, better to leave well enough along. However, if higher mileage, good idea to replace with full compliment bearings; Toyo/Torrington B-148s. As Meatball suggests, special tool is required to R/R the inner bearings but there is a work around. You can rent a blind hole puller from Auto Zone/Advance Auto, just be sure the correct size collet is in the kit; using the wrong collet can cause the bad juju previously referenced when removing the bearings. You can use one of the cams to drive the new bearings into the bores. Freeze the bearings over night, liberally apply lubricant to the bearing and the bores and, writing facing you, slowly tap the bearings into the bores with a plastic dead blow hammer. The bearings will go in pretty easily, if you feel resistance, the bearing is probably "cocked' in the bore, back up and start over. I know it sounds "caveman" but I have done it several times before I finally bought the tool. I do agree with Meatball that if you can borrow the tool, all the better but that is usually not an option.

There are online sources for the HD manual; I don't have links but if you search you should find them. Digital manuals are not expensive. Keep looking on Ebay and you might run across a deal. Some say the Hayden/Clymer manuals are OK but I find them lacking on details and illustrations.

 

Some videos I saw show some guys pressing out the cams from the cam plate but I never really saw why as it appears you can replace the tensioners w/o doing so. I assumed here was the "outer" bearing, the counter part to the inner bearing we've been discussing that is more of an issue it seems. So do the "outer" bearing get replaced in the cam plate or have I got all tis wrong. Sorry I'm looking for a parts catalog where I could speak more intelligently but for now I'm also stuck with me lol

 

If you heat the whole cam plate assembly in the oven the cams and bearings will fall out easily. Just make sure to remove the bearing retainer plate first.

There is a small blind plug on top of the cam plate, with an o ring. I think it's a good idea to put a new o ring after the oven manoeuvres, it can be damaged by the heat.
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so I should look for outter cam bearing for the cam plate(2x) and a blind plug for the cam plate as well to go along with the rocker and cam chest gaskets

 

Not necessarily. Like Meatball says, heat the cam plate assembly, with cams, and the cams, with bearings will fall out. That way there has been no pressure on the outer cam bearing race and no need to replace the outer cam bearings. It is your call whether or not you want to replace the inner cam bearings. Once the tensioners have been addressed, you can freeze the cams, with the outer bearings, heat the cam plate again and drop the cams/bearings back into the cam plate. The inner chain will be on and the timing marks on the cam sprockets must be aligned. Unless you have a "special" tool, the cams have to come out to replace the inner tensioner. It's not rocket science.