So they didn't inspect the Cam Chest? Don't order anything until you crack it open. You don't know what it has.

 

So ive got the rocker box tops off, push rods pulled, cam chest open and bolts pulled from sprockets. I don't have a good picture of the cam tensioners yet but I'll get one. Wanted to update everyone since there was a lot of input on this thread.

Another question, do I need to find TDC (top dead center) and align sprockets before I remove them and the chain to pull the cam plate , or just make sure they align during reassembly. At any rate do I need to worry with TDC we aligning sprockets on reassembly? Somewhere I saw do TDC on the rear cylinder and see the sprocket to align on reassembly and you are good.

I have the service manual but flipping through it last night I had some trouble following what it was saying. Seems like some information wasn't there and was in other areas. I'm sure I'm just not acclimated to the book yet. ​​​​​​​



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You dont need to put it at TDC to remove the sprockets.

And when you reassemble you align the dots on the sprockets, that will get everything timed right.

​​​​​​​Then when you put back the rocker arms you need to put the cylinder you are working on at TDC on the intake stroke, to make sure the lifters are on the base circle of the cams.

 

How would I know if it's the intake or the compression stroke? I used a long thin rod through the spark plug hole to find the piston (I guess it is) at it's highest point to remove the push rods. Would that Indicate the TDC of the compression stroke?

So when reassembling I need the piston furthest away from spark plug hole or TDC of intake stroke? I have very little idea of how an engine works as you can tell but it's very interesting.

 

With the plugs out you can put your finger over the plug hole and feel compression coming up. You can use a straw then on top of the piston to witness highest point. If you go too far just back it off a little. Sometimes this method is easier than trying to watch the lifters come to the same point at TDC.

 

During reassembly and To get TDC for push rod install, could I turn over the engine (5th gear and rear tire in the air) via the larger cam chest sprocket bolt? Just hard to rotate the tire and tell if the piston is at its highest position all at the same time.

 

Not that hard to turn the motor by the rear wheel in high gear with the plugs out. I can actually bump it with my foot against the tire on a low lift. You can always enlist a helper too.

 

I had an o1 road king, when tensioniers were checked 1/2 of 1 was gone & the other was all the way through. Had them upgraded to new style hydraulic tensioners & big bore kit at the same time. So there was definitely debris in the system. It had 40,000miles when upgraded & drove it another 10,000 before I sold it. Last I know the guy I sold it to was still driving it. I personally wouldn’t worry about it, any of the debris that are in there & it’s not damaged now, change tensioners,flush it out & drive it & enjoy it.

 

So I’ve pulled the cam plate . I think someone has been in here before. These inner bearings look like the newer style everyone suggested. And there was a sign of fluid on the clutch cable cover that sits under the cam chest. It wasn’t leaking or dripping from anywhere nor was the line soaked but it had been exposed to oil at some point. Can anyone say these are the newer style torrent bearings ? Looks almost like a b148 in there

 

Unless your driving is a lot different than the guy you got the bike from, I would check again for the tensioners at 3 times the current mileage. If the INA and races on the cams look god I'd even run them..

The lifters will be 99B, if the rollers look good run them.