On the dyno 4-4500 if it's not feeling too bad, not wot but 40% tps to start, 4th gear. Street, same thing but that's been a few years . The big advantage on the dyno is watching afr's and spark knock. If it's way off, stop and fix. I can't find my pics but when Doc was here he had some of pistons that were only used on the dyno. Looked brand new between the rings, great seal. It doesn't take long to seat the rings, something you can't get back. That's why I'm in favour of breaking them in on the dyno.

 

I heat cycle a few tines then take it out and seat the rings like a racer. 1st gear to the rev limiter then let the throttle snap closed up and down for a few miles. that is the racers way. pressure from the compression and let off pushes the rings to the cylinders and seals em together. Screw that baby it til 500 miles or whatever the factory says. my bike has 180k on it and redid the top end at 150k cuz of an oil ring. still had noce crosshatch in the cylinders. never had an oil issue til then.

 

Hello guys. I broke the motor in like every other motor I had new or rebuilt. 500 easy miles. I did change the oil at 300 miles not 500. As soon as it had 500 miles on it I raced a 2023 lowrider St 117 from a 25 mph roll on. My 95-in Dyna was the first one to 95 mph by 2 bike lengths I was surprised. The bike now has 677 miles on it runs great. I will change the oil again after I have 800 miles on it and call it broken in. I know a lot of people do not like the s&s 510 cams but it's working great for me. Gas mileage ranges from 32 to 37 mph. I'm going to lean out the carburetor a little bit. I'm thinking about the Joe Minton jet kit. Has anybody had any experience with the Joe Minton kit. I know the 510 s&s and mikuni carb equal bad gas mileage, but I think I should be doing better than 32 to 37 mpg. Thanks again.

 

The problem with the Dynatek TC88 unit is that all available curves are very strange, high initial advance and then a slow increase through the whole rpm range. The hard starting comes from said high initial advance, and if you want an aggressive rise in the mid range you will end up with crazy high advance in the high rpms.

I have talked to a tech at Dynatek and he told me the basic curve shape is copied from the emissions friendly stock ignition module, and the different curves are simply variations on that.

I have the Dynatek in my bike, but I have bought the programming cable, which lets me use their quite crude but still functional "curvemaker" software tool, where I can design the advance curves, including wot and decel curves with interpolation, rear cylinder offset, dead revs at start and rpm limit. With that I think it works as good as any other ignition module, but the DTT has even more advanced features if you use external programming.