2002 TC88 // bore to 95" or 98" S&S kit ?
#1
2002 TC88 // bore to 95" or 98" S&S kit ?
I have a 2002 softail with the TC88. Currently have 509 chain drive cams in it. I want to upgrade the bike to get some decent power out of it.
I have received 2 different opinions from 2 different shops
Shop #1 is offering the S&S 98" kit and says to combine that with the 585 cams , upgraded lifters/ push rods/ but not to get the cam chest and oil pump from S&S. He says it is really not necessary for what I want to do to the bike. The cost for parts alone would be $3425 CAD
Shop #2 which does the machining themselves says to bore my stock cylinders to 95" + wiseco pistons and that I would be better off with the 585 S&S that includes the cam chest/oil pump/lifters/push rods etc. Also they suggest porting the heads to what they called stage 2b high velocity. Obviously the cam chest + oil pump alone adds a about $1500 to the cost of this upgrade. Total is about $5000 CAD just for parts/porting/boring.
Are either of these good options ? Which would be the better bang for buck? Is the cam plate and oil pump really necessary ?
What other options would be worth looking at ? Not worth just boring stock cylinders + porting heads and keeping current 509 cams ?
I have received 2 different opinions from 2 different shops
Shop #1 is offering the S&S 98" kit and says to combine that with the 585 cams , upgraded lifters/ push rods/ but not to get the cam chest and oil pump from S&S. He says it is really not necessary for what I want to do to the bike. The cost for parts alone would be $3425 CAD
Shop #2 which does the machining themselves says to bore my stock cylinders to 95" + wiseco pistons and that I would be better off with the 585 S&S that includes the cam chest/oil pump/lifters/push rods etc. Also they suggest porting the heads to what they called stage 2b high velocity. Obviously the cam chest + oil pump alone adds a about $1500 to the cost of this upgrade. Total is about $5000 CAD just for parts/porting/boring.
Are either of these good options ? Which would be the better bang for buck? Is the cam plate and oil pump really necessary ?
What other options would be worth looking at ? Not worth just boring stock cylinders + porting heads and keeping current 509 cams ?
#2
To get decent power out of an 02, you really need to improve the heads. You can have the stock heads ported and get good results with the 585 but the 02 heads don't have the flow capabilities of the 06 up heads. The 02 heads work well if the exhaust port retains some of the port as anti reversion step for the 585 cam. If you were to go with 06 up heads, I''d use a different cam.. In any case the heads will need to be modified for the higher lift of the 585 cam.
I''d go gear drive and leave the pump and cam plate alone.
With either build you will need an adjustable ignition.. The 585 needs compression, somewhere between 10.5 and 10.8 is good.
Ask the guys doing the head porting what the heads flow when done and if they leave an anti reversion step in the exhaust port.
I''d go gear drive and leave the pump and cam plate alone.
With either build you will need an adjustable ignition.. The 585 needs compression, somewhere between 10.5 and 10.8 is good.
Ask the guys doing the head porting what the heads flow when done and if they leave an anti reversion step in the exhaust port.
The following users liked this post:
Gordo-uk (06-05-2024)
#3
The bike is a 2002 which means it has the fragile cam tensioner shoes. These should be replaced and there are three good options, gear drive, Screamin Eagle hydraulic cam plate + oil pump, or a 2007+ stock hydraulic cam plate + oil pump. Alternative 1 requires the crank run out to be less than 0.003" and alternative 3 requires "conversion" cams, which limits the cam choice to Andrews, Feuling or Woods.
I would go for alterative 2. Then bore stock cylinders to 98", have the heads ported and go with the head porters suggestions for cams and compression ratio.
I would go for alterative 2. Then bore stock cylinders to 98", have the heads ported and go with the head porters suggestions for cams and compression ratio.
Last edited by SwedishMeatball; 02-16-2024 at 01:39 PM.
#4
Shop 1but not the S&S kit and with the modifications that Max suggested, i.e., gear driven cams, retain the OEM cam plate and pump and have the heads ported and fitted with springs that will accommodate .600" lift which will open up cam selection. Include Cyclerama cams in the mix; give Wes Brown a call to see what in his line up he would suggest; I am thinking the 570 II. Build for compression, at least 190-200psi. Daytona Twin Tec TC88 progammable ignition, software and cables if the bike is carbed and, of course, rejetting of the CV carb. If carbed, consider replacing with the CV44 if you can find one, or a Mikuni 45. Crank runout should be checked before going gear drive but it is very likely that the '02 crank is within spec and will stay that way with the increased performance; last year of the Timken crank bearing.
It would be wise to start looking for a tuner in your area that is familiar with tuning carbed motors, if the bike is carbed. If EFI, a Power Vision license and dyno tune would be the way to go. You will probably need to upgrade the clutch as well; every 95"/98" motor I have built (not that many) was too strong for the OEM clutch and needed at least the heavier spring. Good luck; lots of help here from guys like the two previous responders so don't be afraid to ask questions; there are no dumb ones.
Lots of moving pieces and a lot to think about to maximize the results; a build like this is not cheap and not just throwing some parts together. It would be a shame to **** away a couple of grand and not achcieve optimum results. I like the guys from Shop 1 not pushing you to buy the S&S cam chest components, unusual because they could make a few $$ by selling you that which you don't really need.
It would be wise to start looking for a tuner in your area that is familiar with tuning carbed motors, if the bike is carbed. If EFI, a Power Vision license and dyno tune would be the way to go. You will probably need to upgrade the clutch as well; every 95"/98" motor I have built (not that many) was too strong for the OEM clutch and needed at least the heavier spring. Good luck; lots of help here from guys like the two previous responders so don't be afraid to ask questions; there are no dumb ones.
Lots of moving pieces and a lot to think about to maximize the results; a build like this is not cheap and not just throwing some parts together. It would be a shame to **** away a couple of grand and not achcieve optimum results. I like the guys from Shop 1 not pushing you to buy the S&S cam chest components, unusual because they could make a few $$ by selling you that which you don't really need.
The following 3 users liked this post by djl:
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post