Thanks for your input but can you elaborate? Surely it’s pretty much the same build cost with the exception cases requiring boring. Need to do the bottom end anyway for the bigger 4 3/8 flywheels…

 

I have a 117 in one bike and a 110 in another bike which was a 107 until this fall. The smaller engine is quieter, cooler and very responsive. For running around back roads 50-70 mph the 107-110 feels just as good to me. If it blows up I’ll be able to get it back together cheaper and faster than the 117 if it blows up.

 

Thanks for your honesty! I am still in the drawing room for this build so hearing other’s honest feedback and experiences is always welcome. 👍

 

I've had several different builds from mild to wild. This build didn't make the biggest peak numbers, but it was my favorite combination because of the broad torque and how the bike felt in general at the throttle. Peak numbers on the dyno sheet don't always tell the full story.

This was my old 113" build using the CR575's. Obviously exhaust and other components play a factor. But at 10:1 compression, it would be a good match for the CR575. If I recall correctly, I was running 10.2:1. It made a freakin' torque tabletop.

I've also used the CR595 and CR630i in a 117 and 124 build. But those would not be a good fit at 10:1 compression. I'd wanna be up around 11:1 for either one of those.

 

Not sure what to make of this one; nothing attached; reply seems unrelated to the post WRT the heads.

 

I tend to agree with harpwrench but getting to 107" a different way; think about an all bore 107. Case boring is required for the 4.125" cylinders and the crank should be trued and balanced which is cheaper than a new 4.375" crank. An all bore 107" motor is pretty torquey and they spool up fast. Not many here run them but a couple have; Max is runnng one now and I think he likes it. I think the S&S 585 could work as well at your current throttle body. Worth a look? JMHO

 

You asked for a couple pics of the bike, can you not see two pics of the bike and one dyno? I can see them…

 

Sounds very interesting. I will have a look. What sort of figures would one expect on this setup?

 

Are you referring to expected dyno numbers?

 

Not much difference in numbers either way tho an all bore will tend to rev easier/faster and make a little more hp. The stroker a little more early torque. One way to get a stroker to rev more like an all bore tho is shed 6+ lbs. of weight at the end of the crank by putting a solid primary sprocket on in place of the boat anchor of a compensator. Partly why I do 127hp/126torque in a stroker when most struggle to hit 120hp. That and the right combination of parts, head work and valve sizes to compliment those parts, and a good tune.
Very few 107s see 130/130. I've seen one max effort do it. A few strokers will break 130 torque but struggle to break 120 hp.
​​​​​​One thing to note is my 127hp is before 5800rpm.
In your case, I would do an all bore. Easier to break 120hp. I would expect low to mid 120s. 125 squared or there about would be a good all bore build.