I’m using FuelMoto pushrods. They have S&S make them for them, but they’re more like Smith bros. These:
I thought I mentioned the exhaust rods did have marks. There are rings on the exhaust (only) about 2” down from the tops. That’s why I bought the reamer and worked on both exhaust tubes at the tops. Both tubes had marks also. But they were very faint and I think I took off enough to clear it. But I’m sure I’ll be taking everything apart again at some point so I’ll look the tubes again when I do.
The cam chest has an S&S pump and tensioner. Yes, chain driven cams.
I’ll try bottoming the lifters and backing off. I imagine you have to pull the rocker cover to see when the rocker starts lifting to see when it’s bottomed? Otherwise how do you know?
BTW that recording was after 30 min on the highway. Annnd I see the front has a leak somewhere. Looks like the tappet cover gasket. So that too. Makes me wonder if a M8 Low Rider S is in my future…
Take you hand while the bike is at idle and try moving the pushrod tube towards the engine then back away from the engine. Sometimes there is enough wiggle in the tube and o-ring to get it in a position where you will not feel the pushrod hitting in the tube. Make sure the engine is not real hot as the tubes do get plenty warm.
I’ll try bottoming the lifters and backing off. I imagine you have to pull the rocker cover to see when the rocker starts lifting to see when it’s bottomed? Otherwise how do you know?
BTW that recording was after 30 min on the highway. Annnd I see the front has a leak somewhere. Looks like the tappet cover gasket. So that too. Makes me wonder if a M8 Low Rider S is in my future…
TDC comp. Add a turn at a time and wait until the pushrod loosens. Repeat until pushrod stays tight then back off, when you feel the threads loosen, go 1/4 turn more and lock. Pushrod may get tight when you tighten the nut. If so, check that it does spin free after some time.
Take you hand while the bike is at idle and try moving the pushrod tube towards the engine then back away from the engine. Sometimes there is enough wiggle in the tube and o-ring to get it in a position where you will not feel the pushrod hitting in the tube. Make sure the engine is not real hot as the tubes do get plenty warm.
That’s why gloves are for! Good idea, I’ll give it a try. Thank you.
Originally Posted by Max Headflow
TDC comp. Add a turn at a time and wait until the pushrod loosens. Repeat until pushrod stays tight then back off, when you feel the threads loosen, go 1/4 turn more and lock. Pushrod may get tight when you tighten the nut. If so, check that it does spin free after some time.
Great, thanks for the explanation. I’ll let you know how it goes. I have to track down the leak too. Hoping it’s a cocked up o ring and not the tappet cover gasket.
I’m using FuelMoto pushrods. They have S&S make them for them, but they’re more like Smith bros. These:
I thought I mentioned the exhaust rods did have marks. There are rings on the exhaust (only) about 2” down from the tops. That’s why I bought the reamer and worked on both exhaust tubes at the tops. Both tubes had marks also. But they were very faint and I think I took off enough to clear it. But I’m sure I’ll be taking everything apart again at some point so I’ll look the tubes again when I do.
The cam chest has an S&S pump and tensioner. Yes, chain driven cams.
I’ll try bottoming the lifters and backing off. I imagine you have to pull the rocker cover to see when the rocker starts lifting to see when it’s bottomed? Otherwise how do you know?
BTW that recording was after 30 min on the highway. Annnd I see the front has a leak somewhere. Looks like the tappet cover gasket. So that too. Makes me wonder if a M8 Low Rider S is in my future…
Sorry, I posted the wrong video. The one before this was just starting up after putting it back together, I hadn’t ridden it yet. However I, like the idiot I am, only snugged the tappet covers so I ended up with oil all the hell over the motor after this ride. This is the 30min highway ride… Just to note, aside from the lunacy-driving tick, the motor runs great in every other way.
It's a little noisey (more than one noise), but I don't hear anything that makes me think something is wrong and about to grenade on you. Some of the noise does sound like intake reversion that is likely agravated by the cam. Is that noise significantly worse with the air cleaner cover off at idle?
I may have missed it in an earlier post, but have you checked the rocker arms and shafts? And are you using roller rockers? They tend to be inherantly noisier than the standard rockers, but required for very high lift cams.
It's a little noisey (more than one noise), but I don't hear anything that makes me think something is wrong and about to grenade on you. Some of the noise does sound like intake reversion that is likely agravated by the cam. Is that noise significantly worse with the air cleaner cover off at idle?
I may have missed it in an earlier post, but have you checked the rocker arms and shafts? And are you using roller rockers? They tend to be inherantly noisier than the standard rockers, but required for very high lift cams.
Paul
I’m waiting for lifter bleed down at the moment. Definitely A LOT of intake noise on that video. You know the sound! I’m using Vulcan Engineering shaft loc rocker supports, but not using roller rockers. When Scott was building the motor he didn’t mention roller rockers were required, so no, not using them.
And no, I haven’t opened the rockers yet. That’s may be next…
Hoping to have this buttoned up in an hour so I’ll see how it sounds with @Max Headflow’s tighter preload.
Any exhaust waves making it back to an open exhaust valve will end up in the combustion chamber and intake. Reversion. If it hits an exhaust valve closed you can hear it smack that closed valve too at times.
Its really hard to pin point where noise is coming from sometimes. Nearly impossible on videos. It becomes a best guess scenario.
I can hear what you're talking about and it does seem somewhat excessive. Just not sure what if anything can be done. Could just be your cams and exhaust don't like each other.
Has this been on a dyno?
Started it up. Good news is I fixed the leak (whoopie). Still sounds the same. But I’ll run it for a bit to get the lifters pumped up a little more, before settling down to football. TiVo is taking care of my weekly depression in the form of Giants football. So now I have two sources of misery, this Dyna, and football.
Whelp, I’m done for a while. No improvement with more preload, and the fu*king tappet cover is still leaking. With a new fu*king gasket and o-rings at that. Oh well, the Dyna gets to rest a while. I’ll pick up a new gasket and pull it apart. Again. Then I guess I’ll pull the rocker covers and have a look. I’m sure I’ll see nothing, but who knows.
This sucks. At least I have the FXR and King so I’m not grounded. But the Dyna is still my favorite, but that is changing rapidly as of late.
10-07-2023, 04:36 PM
