Ok so I’m getting started and 30 sec into it I am confused. The Dyna’s oiling holes on the case for that the rear lifters are at 9:00 when looking at it (cylinders are at 12). The book says orientation of the lifter oil hole should be facing the hole on the block, but these Fueling Race lifters can only be oriented with the hole at 12 or 6:00. So which way do I orient them? Or does it not matter? Note the woods alphas I pulled had the hole facing the hole in the block and only one flat for the alignment pin. guess that’s why they are called “directional”?

So which way should I face these? Both Towards or away from the cylinders? Or intake facing the exhaust?

 

Never mind. I should learn to read. Fueling instructions say inward towards cylinders

 

It makes no difference which way they face. This has been asked/answered repeatedly over the years and that's always been the consensus as pressurized oil will fill he recessed lifter areas.
Facing inboard goes back to the Evo days I think.


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Yep, I answered my own question already.

 

Whelp, back to square 1. Installed the new lifters, preloaded to .070 per Fuelings instructions (they are short travel), closed it all up. Ran the starter with plugs out a few times for about 10 sec each, just to get things flowing. Plugged it up, started it up. Rattled a little for the first minute or so, and got quieter. However the exact same damn tick is still there.

So I guess the rockers have to come off. Motherf’er. Waste of my f’ing time.

I suppose I’ll put the air cleaner back on and go for a ride just to make sure I’m letting the lifters pump up enough.

F me.

 

Do yourself a favor! Pull the top rocker box cover. Crank the motor and see if the exhaust push rod on the front cylinder is hitting the top of the push rod cover near the top towards the center of the Cylinder
unless I missed it, you never did tell whether you were using S&S quickies, or some other adjustable push rod.
When I had the quickies installed, where the adjuster was, it was so thick, where the adjustment nut was at. It was also hitting the inside of the pushrod tube in the middle also. Check and see if that is hitting in the center. There will be witness marks at the adjustment part on that part Of the push rod also if that is where it’s hitting . You can’t miss it.

 

If you do end up, taking it back apart, please post pictures of your pushrods top to bottom all the way around. I’m curious to see what they look like. From what I’m hearing, there has to be some kind of witness mark on them. However, I could be wrong.
Now I had a very similar noise another time.
Are you running Cam chain, and tensioners?
or are you running a gear set?
PM Me. I may have some other information that will help you.

 

Actually the tick sounds more even.. There still might be some air in the lifter.. Travel limiters seem slower to get the air out. If all the air is out, it will get louder as the oil thins..

You can try bottoming the plungers in the lifters and back off 1/4 turn.. Then learn to live with the noise.. I guess you could always go to SnS640 cams as they are typically quieter..

I got tired of dealing with Crane H290s in my 02 RK and changing lifters every 10 to 20K, went to a Andrews 55. Crane H314 in my 2000 FXDX, went a SnS625. It's the one with the 9B in it now.

BTW Had an H290 in a SnS 88ci Evo motor and it was dead quiet.

FWIW I'd bet the Woods lifters are quieter except that you got one bad lifter.. Bobby likes the plungers setup tight..


Add:

I've had pushrod marks in quiet motors.. Doubt it's the issue..

 

I’m using FuelMoto pushrods. They have S&S make them for them, but they’re more like Smith bros. These:





I thought I mentioned the exhaust rods did have marks. There are rings on the exhaust (only) about 2” down from the tops. That’s why I bought the reamer and worked on both exhaust tubes at the tops. Both tubes had marks also. But they were very faint and I think I took off enough to clear it. But I’m sure I’ll be taking everything apart again at some point so I’ll look the tubes again when I do.

The cam chest has an S&S pump and tensioner. Yes, chain driven cams.

I’ll try bottoming the lifters and backing off. I imagine you have to pull the rocker cover to see when the rocker starts lifting to see when it’s bottomed? Otherwise how do you know?

BTW that recording was after 30 min on the highway. Annnd I see the front has a leak somewhere. Looks like the tappet cover gasket. So that too. Makes me wonder if a M8 Low Rider S is in my future…

 

Take you hand while the bike is at idle and try moving the pushrod tube towards the engine then back away from the engine. Sometimes there is enough wiggle in the tube and o-ring to get it in a position where you will not feel the pushrod hitting in the tube. Make sure the engine is not real hot as the tubes do get plenty warm.