That's one way of doing it.

 

Sometimes it’s cheaper to take it to a pro, who hopefully can make a quick, accurate diagnosis. I know some on here call people who use a mechanic, a poindexter, but a good Indy spends years becoming an expert. They work on bikes all day. I know enough to do emergency repairs but I know I don’t know enough to diagnose maladies.

I see what cockamamie diagnoses people come up with about their eyes, from being Google doctors. I can diagnose them in 30 seconds, from their history. Because that’s what I did all day for 41 years.

 

i have a solution a 2020 road king special, bought one today.... back to the problem , bike has been to shop twice. they are at a loss also. i hate paying someone to do what i can do myself. it just takes me longer(life keeps interferring). gonna confer with another mechanicand go from there. everything i have done to this point has come from members of the forums.if this was an ol panhead it would been fixed and broke down on the next weak link(lol). i love pans and thats where majority of my wrenchin comes from .i am just tired of wrenchin and would much rather go ride .these new motors have a sensor to check the sensor!this motorcycle will rise again . selling this after its fixed is financing the stage 2 possibly more . keep your ideas coming and thanks to all that contributed.

 

So reading into this.... Not an OEM pump?

Everything you wrote points to fuel pump.... 1st pump died.... New pump issues.... I can tell you after alot of years being a tech for a living aftermarket electrical parts are garbage auto and mc.... If its not an OEM pump, that'd be the very 1st thing I'd start with...

 

Had a 2012 Street Glide in my shop. Bike was idling very bad. Performed several tests on the codes that were stored and everything pointed to bad ECM. So I replace the ECM and its still running bad. I'm scratching my head and do the tests two more times and still the same outcome. Walked away and came back, and decided to check everything again and discover the issue: Bad connector. When I did the test on the TMAP sensor all was good. It wasn't until I plugged it back in and positioned it back on the throttle body that I discovered the one wire in the connector was loosing connection once the wires were bent back 90 degrees. Replaced connector and TMAP sensor, $40 and all was good after that.

My point is check the wires and connectors.

Ride safe!

 

3 days late here, you say the bike has been to the shop twice. A shop that has a "Scanylizer" (sp) and they plugged it in to get a read out? Or are they guessing like the rest of us?