Looking for suggestions on getting this thing out.

When I double and triple nut on this stud to get it out of the case, the nuts are turning on the upper threads. I'm thinking the big orange box store probably Grade 2 nuts I'm using are too soft and are deforming instead of locking against each other as they should. It's not helping any that the case threads have already started to strip out making the stud tighter than normal in the case. I've also tried heat and vice grips directly on the shaft but they're spinning too.

Options that I've come up with:
Use more leverage when double and or triple nutting;
Grade 8 nuts;
Clean upper threads of oil and use red lock tight;
Weld a nut on the upper er threads;
Cut it off and drill/screw extractor.

I'm not worried about trying to save what's left of the case threads (they're toast anyway). I intend to use a TimeSert to restore the use threads.

I'd appreciate any lessons learned from anybody that's already been there and done that.

 

Try some red LT on the double nutted threads and let sit.. Then try to unscrew it..

I have trouble that you are saying the stud is pulling but not turning?

I typically use a stud collect is there is room..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185937025062

I didn't buy the full set but simply bought collits as needed... Less painful that way..

 

thanks for the collett suggestion.

"I have trouble that you are saying the stud is pulling but not turning?"

I was pulling the head and when I went to break the nut on that stud loose, it was already loose and the stud was sticking up about 1/16 higher than the other three. My working theory is that the some of (or all) the threads in the case gave up the ghost and let the stud "pop up" effectively stripping the threads in the case and locking the stud in requiring much more torque than normal to get the stud out. So much more that the double and or triple nuts are spinning on the stud instead of turning the stud out of the case.

 

Use a plumbers pipe wrench and a breaker bar if necessary.

 

The stud remover is the tool to use, and if you have a large t handle it is much better than a breaker bar (easier to keep straight).

Is the engine still in the frame?

 

Turned out to be easier than I thought. Ended up cleaning the threads of the stud, getting some Grade 8 nuts and still wouldn't budge but at least the nuts weren't turning on the stud.

The real trick was turning clockwise first to break the chip on the stripped threads. Then it came out easy peasy. If I'da cleaned the threads in the first place and broken the chip, the el cheapo Grade 2 nuts probably would've worked fine.

Here's what it looks like after I got it out. Hopefully the local stealer has a stud on the shelf.

I appreciate all the quick input.

 

Since the case needs a timesert and new studs I'd double nut it, tack weld the top one and go if you don't want to buy a stud puller set. One's gone the rest are suspect, you want to change them I'd heat the stud with a propane touch first.

 

I hear ya and that's already the plan.

I'm doing the same thing to the heads. One of the bolts for one of the rocker arm support plates did the same thing. I'm TimeSerting every hole in the top of the heads cause if one failed how long before another one goes and as long as I'm in there. Pulling the head is how I found this problem.

 

I was going to suggest turning it in first, then turn it out.

Well you already done that. Congrats on getting it out

Tom