Most of us check runout by bolting a small piece of mild steel angle to the motor case and attaching a quality magnitized base to that to which an accurate dial indicator is attached for a solid mount that will not allow any movement. I made a simple attachment from aluminum years ago for this purpose; photo attached. Since then, I have modified an early cam plate by cutting off the top just above the pinion shaft bore where I can mount a dial indicator. Point being however runout is measured the attachment of the dial indicator has to be solid, no movement.
The OPs cam plate is a from a later model; no o-ring grove so hydro tensioners and roller chains? If true runout is in the .003" to .0055", I agree with Purehybrid, retain the OEM cam plate, upgrade inner bearngs, new tensioner shoes and ride on.
After pulling the primary off along with the alternator assembly and Measuring it with my dial indicator it’s seven and a half thousandths and two thousandths end play in the bearings.
After thinking about this for a few days I made the decision to pull the short block, easy enough to swap a crank but reached out to Hillside Cycles in hopes that I get a response to discuss me sending the case and crankshaft for inspection and options!
I have a few other bikes I can ride while this is in the works!
06-02-2023, 05:50 PM
