I have a stator plug leak on a 2001 FXDX (pictures enclosed) ... I put silicone the outside of it a few years back and it held for a while (removed old silicone in picture). I am addressing other leaks and have the inner primary case off, so I have access to the Stator, the Stator works fine, and I do not want to replace. I was wondering if I should silicone from the inside also. fill the hole seen in picture or am I asking for trouble. I use the Black Permatex.

 

Well I think the obvious concern would be if the silicone put inside becomes "dislodged" you'd be in for trouble ... If you are against replacing the stator I'd proceed with the repair that you did last time and get a few more years of life out of it ... Just my thoughts ... Good Luck

 

When you pull the connector to the regulator, bet you find it full of oil. Oil leaks through the wires and into the connector. While it won't hurt anything, it makes a mess. I replaced the stator on my 2000 FXDX because of this leak a few years ago. 20 year old rubber.

 

I think best shot is replacing but Permatex Black or Gray RTV is a good sealer. I would pull plug and if rubber is still good, spray it with brake spray to degrease and the inner cover opening.


Then I would work it into both wire openings and RTV the plug and opening and plug it in.

Let it dry 24 hours . The outside excess will rolloff once dry.

I would not worry about inside. Maybe Larry sees something I don't but if a small hunk of RTV in the primary hurts something, the highways would be littered with Harley's .

I used the gray when I rebuilt the 5 speed transmission and transfer in my in my 93 Wrangler. There's not a gasket one in those case parts. Aluminum to aluminum and that 2" thick cast iron support plate faces. Doesn't leak a drop.

Key here is you need to let it dry first. Specs call for a fast setting two part sealer. However, that's only required by people wanting to put it into service quickly.

PS.. I ask Permatex tec about it before using it. RTV is a great sealer when it's captured. But not just as an external plug.

Again, new is best. Only aftermarket is available and quite often aftermarket rubber is sorry compared to OEM.

I would RTV new if I went that way. I black RTV OEM cover gaskets with a light film. Let it dry and rub off that small bead like a long rubber band.

What ever you do, not too much and let it dry before rolling excess off and only if cosmetic necessary to you.

 

Thanks for the reply....Thats what I was thinking. The way it looks though, if I pack it in there the part covering part of the whole will help keep it from backing out. I read other people changed the stator and the oil leak reappeared shortly afterwards. I am from the school its not the stator its the plug. I read somewhere to do it from the inside.. wish I could see exactly what they did. Packing it in may be overkill. .

 

I'm Sorry To be clear when you say "I would not worry about the inside" do you mean seal it from inside also and don't worry or just seal from outside as suggested both wire openings and plug.

Thank You

 

Film the aluminum opening just being neat to only overlap the outer edge and the inner edge maybe a 1/32 bead. Film the plug where it touches the opening. Film both ends of plug a little in opening around wires gently with a dull toothpick. If you puncture wires, it's all toast.. If it's really leaking thru the wire area, it's probably hopeless. My guess is that was molded on wires. If the rubber is that bad, it's junk.

When I was a toolmaker in the late 60s, we made one-off rubber molds for submarine electrical molds. The rubber mold shop was in our building. They built the many pin plugs and used our mold cavity to form the complete assembly wire harness.

They molded these tires for me. The rims are turned from a bar of gray PCV. My oldest son did a number on them in the early 70s. The Grandkids' and Great Grandkids' toys are a bit simpler on my part.


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Nice I see your a model builder also. Hers a model I did and a rocking horse for my Nephews new baby.






This is why sometimes I am slow to start a project. Apparently I have more issues. I removed the spacer and I see a bunch of metal shards stuck to it, I check the rotor and all the splines are sheared off. Seems I need a new rotor So the hell with it I am going to but a new stator also. When I removed the compensating nut I was able to turn it by hand. I also purchased a Puller to remove race, while tightening down the puller by hand the race came off, no tension felt at all. I purchased the bike new and only people that worked on it where Harley wrenches.. I did have them install a Jerry branch 95 inch kit Heads, cam, pistons, Carb, etc.. I don't know if they ever when into primary for anything but I never did.

 

Nice models. I worked in wood for years.

My 04 was same way. Alternator rotor spline gone. Bike was in warranty and dealership just said compensator bolt got loose when what was happening was rotor was just slipping wearing a face groove. Third time I said screw it and fixed it.

Sprocket got so far over, chain started nipping.

I had to rework male spline on crank to widen it yet be careful to leave OD in center of tooth to center rotor.

If spline is not tight, engine breaking will loosen nut bolt.

Very common on 10B splines. Why Harley went to seriations. They can hold tolerances tighter .

 

One thing you might want to do is check to make sure that the nut in not bottoming out of the crankshaft.. You can remove the sliding cam and assemble the comp then measure from the rotor to the edge where the splines start on the crank. Make sure you have about 0.06" more depth than the length of the clamping surface on the nut to end that threads on the crank..

Does you nut have a washer?