I have changed everything, still same ticking noise
#1
I have changed everything, still same ticking noise
Hello all,
I have a 2002 FXD with TC88 engine. When I bought it 4 years ago I instantly changed to gear drive S&S 509 cams, everything else stock except exhaust.
Ever since it has ad an annoying loud ticking sound that only appears after maybe 30 minutes of riding, I guess when the engine is really hot.
I changed to new S&S lifters and installed "rocker lockers" with no change.
During this winter I made quite a big change to the engine, bored to 95" with Wiseco pistons, brand new S&S heads, new Andrews 55G camshafts, Mikuni HSR42 carb, Dynatek ignition, Daytona high flow oil pump. I have also replaced the compensator with a solid sprocket. Oil pressure is 25 psi at idle and 40-50 psi when riding.
Obviously the bike runs great and is significantly quicker. Starts easy, runs great, no leaks or other issues.
But the loud ticking is still there. So my question is, what have I missed. It seems I have replaced everything that could possibly create a ticking noise. There was no wear or other damage to any parts when I took it apart for the upgrade. When cold the engine runs super quiet, but not when hot.
What else in this machine could possibly be making this noise? It sounds exactly the same as day one. I guess since its been running fine like this it will not break, but its still annoying to the point I'm considering trading it for a Yamaha
I have a 2002 FXD with TC88 engine. When I bought it 4 years ago I instantly changed to gear drive S&S 509 cams, everything else stock except exhaust.
Ever since it has ad an annoying loud ticking sound that only appears after maybe 30 minutes of riding, I guess when the engine is really hot.
I changed to new S&S lifters and installed "rocker lockers" with no change.
During this winter I made quite a big change to the engine, bored to 95" with Wiseco pistons, brand new S&S heads, new Andrews 55G camshafts, Mikuni HSR42 carb, Dynatek ignition, Daytona high flow oil pump. I have also replaced the compensator with a solid sprocket. Oil pressure is 25 psi at idle and 40-50 psi when riding.
Obviously the bike runs great and is significantly quicker. Starts easy, runs great, no leaks or other issues.
But the loud ticking is still there. So my question is, what have I missed. It seems I have replaced everything that could possibly create a ticking noise. There was no wear or other damage to any parts when I took it apart for the upgrade. When cold the engine runs super quiet, but not when hot.
What else in this machine could possibly be making this noise? It sounds exactly the same as day one. I guess since its been running fine like this it will not break, but its still annoying to the point I'm considering trading it for a Yamaha
#2
#4
Have you used a two ear stethoscope on it to isolate it? Harbour freight $10.
From what you described, sounds like a piston slap. With a stethoscope, it will definitely be heard (felt) down near base of cylinder since that is when and where it occurs. Do the left side opposite lifters and front and back sides.
Doesn't take but a few .001 of an inch over to hear it when crank pin hits bottom and starts pushing piston back up and the piston rocks the other direction.
Actually, doesn't really hurt anything for a long time. But obviously not right.
It's really hard to pin this down to. I rebuilt my 4 cylinders Jeep motor.
Cleaned the lifters. It had a tick after warmup. So I replaced lifters. There bleed is not a ball but a stamped disk with a cross recess. It had a tad of wear. However, didn't fix .
No adjustment on rockers, and some only had 1/2 turn into lifter, so a couple three, I took .030 off base of rocker base. Didn't help.
Finally, I replaced the 10W-30 Synthetic with 15W-40 diesel grade conventional oil. Fixed it.
When I rebuilt motor, I knew cylinders were near max clearance but it just a knock around town winter and no top or doors rid to the gym car.
But just like you, tics are annoying to me. An I can't hear worth a flip now at 75.
From what you described, sounds like a piston slap. With a stethoscope, it will definitely be heard (felt) down near base of cylinder since that is when and where it occurs. Do the left side opposite lifters and front and back sides.
Doesn't take but a few .001 of an inch over to hear it when crank pin hits bottom and starts pushing piston back up and the piston rocks the other direction.
Actually, doesn't really hurt anything for a long time. But obviously not right.
It's really hard to pin this down to. I rebuilt my 4 cylinders Jeep motor.
Cleaned the lifters. It had a tick after warmup. So I replaced lifters. There bleed is not a ball but a stamped disk with a cross recess. It had a tad of wear. However, didn't fix .
No adjustment on rockers, and some only had 1/2 turn into lifter, so a couple three, I took .030 off base of rocker base. Didn't help.
Finally, I replaced the 10W-30 Synthetic with 15W-40 diesel grade conventional oil. Fixed it.
When I rebuilt motor, I knew cylinders were near max clearance but it just a knock around town winter and no top or doors rid to the gym car.
But just like you, tics are annoying to me. An I can't hear worth a flip now at 75.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 05-19-2023 at 06:36 AM.
#5
Have you used a two ear stethoscope on it to isolate it? Harbour freight $10.
From what you described, sounds like a piston slap. With a stethoscope, it will definitely be heard (felt) down near base of cylinder since that is when and where it occurs. Do the left side opposite lifters and front and back sides.
Doesn't take but a few .001 of an inch over to hear it when crank pin hits bottom and starts pushing piston back up and the piston rocks the other direction.
Actually, doesn't really hurt anything for a long time. But obviously not right.
From what you described, sounds like a piston slap. With a stethoscope, it will definitely be heard (felt) down near base of cylinder since that is when and where it occurs. Do the left side opposite lifters and front and back sides.
Doesn't take but a few .001 of an inch over to hear it when crank pin hits bottom and starts pushing piston back up and the piston rocks the other direction.
Actually, doesn't really hurt anything for a long time. But obviously not right.
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#7
Hello all,
I have a 2002 FXD with TC88 engine. When I bought it 4 years ago I instantly changed to gear drive S&S 509 cams, everything else stock except exhaust.
Ever since it has ad an annoying loud ticking sound that only appears after maybe 30 minutes of riding, I guess when the engine is really hot.
I changed to new S&S lifters and installed "rocker lockers" with no change.
During this winter I made quite a big change to the engine, bored to 95" with Wiseco pistons, brand new S&S heads, new Andrews 55G camshafts, Mikuni HSR42 carb, Dynatek ignition, Daytona high flow oil pump. I have also replaced the compensator with a solid sprocket. Oil pressure is 25 psi at idle and 40-50 psi when riding.
Obviously the bike runs great and is significantly quicker. Starts easy, runs great, no leaks or other issues.
But the loud ticking is still there. So my question is, what have I missed. It seems I have replaced everything that could possibly create a ticking noise. There was no wear or other damage to any parts when I took it apart for the upgrade. When cold the engine runs super quiet, but not when hot.
What else in this machine could possibly be making this noise? It sounds exactly the same as day one. I guess since its been running fine like this it will not break, but its still annoying to the point I'm considering trading it for a Yamaha
I have a 2002 FXD with TC88 engine. When I bought it 4 years ago I instantly changed to gear drive S&S 509 cams, everything else stock except exhaust.
Ever since it has ad an annoying loud ticking sound that only appears after maybe 30 minutes of riding, I guess when the engine is really hot.
I changed to new S&S lifters and installed "rocker lockers" with no change.
During this winter I made quite a big change to the engine, bored to 95" with Wiseco pistons, brand new S&S heads, new Andrews 55G camshafts, Mikuni HSR42 carb, Dynatek ignition, Daytona high flow oil pump. I have also replaced the compensator with a solid sprocket. Oil pressure is 25 psi at idle and 40-50 psi when riding.
Obviously the bike runs great and is significantly quicker. Starts easy, runs great, no leaks or other issues.
But the loud ticking is still there. So my question is, what have I missed. It seems I have replaced everything that could possibly create a ticking noise. There was no wear or other damage to any parts when I took it apart for the upgrade. When cold the engine runs super quiet, but not when hot.
What else in this machine could possibly be making this noise? It sounds exactly the same as day one. I guess since its been running fine like this it will not break, but its still annoying to the point I'm considering trading it for a Yamaha
I'm thinking something growing with heat, causing clearance somewhere to increase or decrease out of spec.
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#8
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This:
Originally Posted by Jackie Paper
"Have you used a two ear stethoscope on it to isolate it? Harbour freight $10"
You need to at least be able to tell us where the tick is coming from, it could be internal, could be a loose heat shield. Bikes have lots of noises and rattles, isolate a location and then we can start making logical guesses. Only you are in front of the MC, up to you to provide more diagnostic information, good luck.
Originally Posted by Jackie Paper
"Have you used a two ear stethoscope on it to isolate it? Harbour freight $10"
You need to at least be able to tell us where the tick is coming from, it could be internal, could be a loose heat shield. Bikes have lots of noises and rattles, isolate a location and then we can start making logical guesses. Only you are in front of the MC, up to you to provide more diagnostic information, good luck.
#9
This:
Originally Posted by Jackie Paper
"Have you used a two ear stethoscope on it to isolate it? Harbour freight $10"
You need to at least be able to tell us where the tick is coming from, it could be internal, could be a loose heat shield. Bikes have lots of noises and rattles, isolate a location and then we can start making logical guesses. Only you are in front of the MC, up to you to provide more diagnostic information, good luck.
Originally Posted by Jackie Paper
"Have you used a two ear stethoscope on it to isolate it? Harbour freight $10"
You need to at least be able to tell us where the tick is coming from, it could be internal, could be a loose heat shield. Bikes have lots of noises and rattles, isolate a location and then we can start making logical guesses. Only you are in front of the MC, up to you to provide more diagnostic information, good luck.
Sounds travel all over. Stethoscope focus on place it originates.
I am thru with original. Reread it and if you have any questions, will try to answer. Mainly interested in focusing on first poster's question. That's were you need to focus and give him your opinions.
If first poster has questions for me, he can ask.
#10
Sounds live you have addressed everything related to valve train noise. I see you went to a Mikuni HSR 42. That's an AWESOME PERFORMANCE Carb!!!!!! HOWEVER, not perfect. The flat slide WILL shake in and out from the engine pulses. THAT clicking is NOT going to go away. Too simple of an answer? OK, search for Mikuni - slide rattle. I quite surprised that the experts here overlooked the Mikuni detail.