Comp nut cam loose after the all-bore 107 build; maybe I didn't get the torque right when I put the motor back together. Later, I had to replace the IPB race and noticed the comp nut loose in the process. No washer; I just cut and re-torqued using the later torque procedure but I don't recall what the actual torque applied was.

 

The shims were to address the issue of the comp nut coming loose; they became obsolete with the introduction of the later comp assembly.

 

Should have brought that up to start..

 

2007 model year had a higher incidence of crank failures than previous years. That is the year supply was outsourced to an offshore suppliler and the run out spec for warranty purposes was increased from .003" to .012". Whatever performance upgrades are being considered, having the crank trued, balance and welded/plugged should be part of the plan. JMHO, but if the crank is addressed, the later version of the "Lefty" bearing would be sufficient; no need for the Timken conversion.

I went that route on my last 98" build (115/115). I guess time will tell but no issues after sevearl thousand miles.

 

Maybe, that is why I thought it appropriate to provide some context to your question.

 

The different shims I was talking about was when they used to different size charging systems. Around 2005 ish all touring bikes had the same charging system. So you had different shims for FLHTCU and FLHRs. I believe no shim on FLHTCUs since they had bigger rotor.
My timken with a smaller rotor has shim.
everyone says this, and I do believe there is an issue. But my 2007 has stock comp nut, using 2007 manual procedure, so far so good. But I have tightened it at 25, 50, 55. Maybe one more again after 55. So not like it went long periods.

I suspect it may be riding habits. I like to go fast, but not fast out of hole.

I am not sure I really want the SE fix when the time comes. The idea of glueing something in my primary does not appeal to me.

 

I suspect that the issues was with assembly. I've got an 07 FLHTC that been a stage 1 96 for 20K, Stage 4 103 for 60K and currently a 107 for 36K. At 20K runout was 0.001. It grew to 0.003. Checked the drive side runout a few thousand ago and it's still around 0.003" Lower end has never been apart. Early SnS cranks were a different story IME..

StrokerJLK had a 07 FLHT that he drag raced with the stock lower end. He also rode Iron Butt. IIRC it made it over 100000 miles before it finally broke some time after he added a procharger..

I'd check runout if the bike has any miles on it and if good run it..