I see a slight timing mark on that plug too. I wouldn't worry about it. You could drop a few as suggested and see if that moves.
The clutch spring wasn't enough with the stock discs. The E1 discs I used have twice the friction surface.
I do have a perfectly good stock set of discs/plates if you want them tho.
The only downside I know of to the aim setup is a harder pull at high rpms. It's mostly why djl runs a pingle with it for speed shifting. You definitely don't want to run the aim with the SE spring I wouldn't think.
I run open loop as well btw.
Those plugs look great! If anything the front is a tad rich at idle. Leave it be.
The rear actually requires less fuel "because" it runs hotter.
As far as afr, the rear plug looks better to me, but because it runs hotter, it may be cleaning off better, the front ring looks black, both cylinders may be running the same afr.
I'm surprised you didn't set up the WEGO, one cylinder at a time.
With TT logs, I can see how close things are by looking at VE vs New VE, Lamba vs set Lamda, CLI and AFF, I peeked at the plugs once I think.
I got lazy with going to 18 mm bungs.. Don't have a head pipe for the Dyna.. I was going to do it but said FI.. I got pretty good at reading plugs.. This was my last 103" build and tune.. I guess I'm getting lazy as I'm aging.. Only 2 1/2 years to retirement..
I see a slight timing mark on that plug too. I wouldn't worry about it.
The clutch spring wasn't enough with the stock discs. The E1 discs I used have twice the friction surface.
I do have a perfectly good stock set of discs/plates if you want them tho.
The only downside I know of to the aim setup is a harder pull at high rpms. It's mostly why djl runs a pingle with it for speed shifting. You definitely don't want to run the aim with the SE spring I wouldn't think.
I run open loop as well btw.
Those plugs look great! If anything the front is a tad rich at idle. Leave it be.
Thanks for the info on the AIM.. I'm going to call Fuel Moto tomorrow and talk to them about that And see just how difficult that can be in high RPM range.. otherwise I'll probably just go the extra plate setup with my SE diaphragm.. I was surprised how much tighter the primary chain gets with the auto adjusters when you put that kind of power into a bike ****ing thing was like a piano wire.. I put in a friend of mine's manual chain adjuster.. I think it was a screaming eagle unit..
Yeah I ran mine with the primary cover off when I did the 30 tooth solid sprocket and new shorter chain it comes with. I have a video of it somewhere here. I thought it was tight too but I haven't any issues/wear at all with the stock tensioner.
Talk about throwing you back off the seat. Try that torque with a 30 tooth! Hang on!
Ask djl his thoughts on the aim too. I just remember him telling me that because I was going to run it myself. Probably would've and done the pingle too but I was already over $5000 on this thing. Closer to $6000 probably. But I did an S&S crank, the DT 3 stage pump and plate, even my reed valves for crankcase venting were $200.
Does your bike have BCM? If so you should have a clutch switch and not only does it let you start the bike in gear but it also kills the injector pulse width when pulled for shifting to the next gear.. I found that in my Data logs.. So as far as I know, you don't need one.. I have a hard time remembering the proper system name.. It's the system where all the lights and switches are controlled.. Another "Brain Fart".... My 2013 was the first year for the Street Bob model.
Pretty sure Baker Drivetrain makes one as well... I was considering it at one time cause I thought theirs was better...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 03-19-2023 at 08:29 PM.
Need a Little help with the tune.. In the pic of the plugs the right plug is the rear cylinder.. I've been slowly making ground on the tune.. The rear cylinder at one point was pretty lean but had come along nicely except that for some reason I can't get a timing mark on the ground strap like the front plug.. Is it possible the coil is an issue?? Open to suggestions.. Thanks..
To me, the rear looks pretty good and the front looks like it's getting a little oil on it.. Might want to try cooler plugs.. DPR8ES?
Does your bike have BCM? If so you should have a clutch switch and not only does it let you start the bike in gear but it also kills the injector pulse width when pulled for shifting to the next gear.. I found that in my Data logs.. So as far as I know, you don't need one.. I have a hard time remembering the proper system name.. It's the system where all the lights and switches are controlled.. Another "Brain Fart".... My 2013 was the first year for the Street Bob model.
Pretty sure Baker Drivetrain makes one as well... I was considering it at one time cause I thought theirs was better...
No BCM, has a TSM, not Can Bus,
What they call the Baker, saw adds before but can't find it
To me, the rear looks pretty good and the front looks like it's getting a little oil on it.. Might want to try cooler plugs.. DPR8ES?
Yeah I run DCPR8E or DCPR8EIX . I know FM runs nothing but the stock heat range.
I couldn't tell if it was oil or or fuel in the pic but it does look shiny like oil.
03-19-2023, 06:57 PM
