Hey guys, I'm new to the Harley world.

I bought a used '12 Street Glide that has had a bunch of motor work done to it (prior to me), the problem is that it was built and tuned for max HP/TQ but in a very high RPM range. unfortunately, I don't ride in that style so the bike is basically a turd the way I ride it.

here is the current build as far as I know, there may have been some things done that I'm not aware of but here's what I know for sure.

2012 Street Glide with the 103 "A" motor.
S&S "big bore kit" increasing to 106.
S&S heads 79cc ---1.94 intake and 1.57 exhaust good for .650 lift
Rocket 584 cams
Drag specialties HP+ hyd lifters
Andrews quick change pushrods
K&N High flow air cleaner
Energy One high performance clutch
V&H 2 into 1 exhaust.
Power commander V tuner

the bike dyno'd at over 100hp/100 tq

the way I ride it runs super rich at idle and mid throttle (2500 rpm)

I purchased a Power commander "auto tuner" and have been working on clearing up the richnes.



now, on to the part about needing help ------ since I've had the bike it's had a pretty bad 'knock' when cruising at 2500 (70mph) under any kind of load ----If I'm coasting down hill it goes away. if it gets above 3000rpm it goes away ----I think I've got it narrowed down to "reversion" noise coming from the intake. my understanding is the large overlap cams along with the high flow cleaner and exhaust all contribute to it.

I'm considering changing cams partly for the noise but mostly so I can get better performance in a lower RPM range. I'm not into racing or tearing up the road, just cruising and the current configuration doesn't cut it.

looking for suggestions for new cams that will fit the bill.

thanks,

 

100/100 for a 106 is pretty anemic. You should do a ccp test and see what it's cranking. If the compression is there a different set of cams should make a big difference. Woods 777 at 10.5 to 10.75 will run nice. Not trying to kick you while you're down but a power vision from fuelmoto would have been a much better option. I'm sure you'll get some great advice from some of the people here to get you straightened out

 

To stay cheap you can find some used SE255 cams, or Andrew's 48 or 57H cams, then tune it. Low rpm torque.

 

Yep cam change to less radical and a tune should make it a nice ride.

 

Let's start with a compression test (this will be your dynamic compression based on cam IVC).. Knowing what heads and cam are in it currently will definitely make easier to determine static compression.. Once this is known we can figure which Cam will properly fit your build as well as style of riding...
I don't think the cam was properly matched to the heads.. It should've had 1.61" exhaust valves to help it breath better...

 

First thing is don't change to a less radical cam,, You'll likely turn it into a ping monster.

It sounds like the original guy was headed in a fair direction but he failed miserably on the EFI controller..

An approximation of the compression ratio is going to be about 10.75 to 1. It could be easily + or - 0.2.

This is way too high for the PCV controller in my opinion. You'd be better off with a power vision tuner, TTS, Direct Link or even a Thundermax.

You current issue is likely that fuel has been added to correct the ping when timing should be pulled. IMO Your best bet is to find a good dyno shop and have them remove the PCV and use one of the mentioned tuners.

If you do change cams you probably don't want to go less than something with a 42 degree intake close.

You don't mention the exhaust, it will make a big difference in power band.. Something like a Fatcat with quiet baffle will give a nice flat torque curve.

 

There can be no speculation on a Cam till the facts are revealed... Putting anything in with 10 or more ivc° will create more issues.. Figure out your pistons and chamber sizes or take it to a shop.. Don't guess.. I totally agree with a better tuner...

What's the bore and stroke? Do you have flat top pistons or raised domes? Is there any way you can measure the chamber volume in the cylinder heads? Once you know all that you can move forward but you're really going to need to check everything else, like the rod bearing end play, crank run out and what do the cam bearings look like? If you can't do all that then take it to a shop...

 

You do know that the guy listed the heads as 79cc and the Bore SnS 106.

 

Ok.. Flat tops? Or domed?

 

If the 2 were bought together, I'd say flattops.. With flattops the CR will be in the 10.7 range. Cam chosen should work at that CR.

By all means do a CCP check. It will be needed before the Dyno anyway.. Check with buying the EFI from FM, they may come up with semi close map..