Greetings from Sweden, this is my 2002 Dyna Superglide.

Bone stock TC88 engine except S&S 509 gear drive cams, also has S&S lifters and adjustable pushrods, a 4" aircleaner and S&S pipes.
It runs nicely but I would like to add a bit more power, especially in the low and mid rpms.

Is there any way forward still using these cams or are they a dead end? I was thinking a 98" cylinder bore with flat top pistons to keep compression at reasonable level.
Or can I go to a higher compression if I install compression releases in the heads? Gasoline here is either 95 or 98 octane.
Would I gain anything from switching to an adjustable ignition module in the current configuration?

Thanks in advance

 

Well ten more inches and a little more squeeze never hurt anybody
( esp. on a light bike)

 

I agree, more cubic inches are needed. My Heritage with the 509 cam is plenty for me but compared to bigger, built motors, I just keep up best I can and when I get there, they have a cold one waiting for me. Lol

 

The OP can run the 509s with a 98" bore and the SE cast flat tops and OEM head gasket without adding compression releases; CCP (sea level) will be below 190psi; having said that, compression releases don't cost much and will extend starter and battery life.

The addition of a DTT TC88 ignition module is a must do with the added compression. Don't know if a qualified dyno tuner is in the area but tuning both fuel and timing will be necessary. The DTT ignition has settings for initial advance and advance slope to dial in timing; however, purchase of the PC link software would be a good idea as it allows the user to tweak the slope set ignition maps for a custom ignition map.

Carburetor will need jetting changes; larger pilot and main as well as raising the needle. If dyno tuning is not an option, it will take lots of plugs and plug readings to tune the new configuration. Been there, done that with the all bore 107" motor in my '02 FLHT.

The heads have to come off and if the OP is considering head porting, springs that will allow higher lift cams as well as decking to modify chamber size open up the options for cam selection.

 

Look into porting the heads and bigger valves. Engines are air pumps. Maximizing the cubic inches you have before adding more is worth a look.

I am planning out my TC88B engine build on my soon to be 20 year old Deuce.

Big bore, heads, gear driven performance cams, more free air cleaner/headers, EFI tune. Upgraded crank bearings also, to preserve the gear driven cams.

I'd like more power without going crazy on the drive train.

 

Newbie here with a new to me 2006 TC 88 Deuce with 19,000KM (Canada eh!) but has Stage 1 V&H breather and V&H pipes = approx. $12,000 miles.

I will be pulling cam cover to check the chain tensioner shoes but wondering about how the S&S 509 will give me lots of grunt low end torque and whether I can change over to a gear system - probably could ask S&S that question presumably. Don't want to go overboard with pushrods & rockers, but may want to examine the lifters nonetheless to see if they are frosted (of course that does mean pulling the pushrods and sleeves).

Could be a great winter project up here in the north.

Any ideas/suggestions. BTW I am tuning into some YouTube videos for ideas too!

 

I see that this is your second post so you may not have read the forum rules WRT hi-jacking threads; you just hi-jacked the OPs thread. Having said that, the OP hasn't come back to his thread since mid July so no harm, no foul. For future reference, you should know that you will usually get more and better replies if you start your own thread. So, I suggest that you edit your above thread by deleting the text and adding that you have started your own thread, or just see where this on goes from here.

You can replace the chain driven cams with gear driven cams if you want to bear the additional cost and if your crank runout is not more than .003". You can save some money by retaining the OEM cam plate, replace the inner and outer cam bearings and replace the cam chain tensioners with a set of CYCO tensioners. Of course you should replace all the associated o-rings and gasket. If installing new cams, replacing the OEM lifters with a set of Johnson Hy-Lifts would be a good idea.

The '06 cylinder heads were an improvement over the earlier heads and with the beehive springs cams with higher lift than the 509 can be used. I have never tried this but the 509 cams with a set of the hi-ratio rocker arms to increase the lift might be a decent combination. Retaining the compression with the early intake close of the 509 would be desireable IMHO. Some will suggest the Andrews 48 cams but the 509s with higher lift and earlier intake close might be an interesting experiment.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. Start a new thread and I am sure you will get enough replies to confuse you.

 

Instead of using the 509 with hi-ratio rockers could you not just go for the S&S 551 cams instead? Same early intake closing but with higher lift. Or even the S&S 583 if the 06 beehives allows that much lift.

 

The later beehive springs will accommodate the 583 lift. Remeber, displacement is still 88" and the 509 cam was desisgned as a drop in cam for the 88" motor. Larger displacement and the "longer" cams would be an option but at 88", IMHO, the 509 on stillts should work well.

 

You want more oomph off the line, run higher rpms.
Meaning change the pathetic gearing.
Cheap and effective.
I'm doing just that for a buddy's gutless TC88 this winter by means of a compensator eliminator with a few less teeth.