Or just put a solid sprocket on.
Another $550and it's a 107 at the compression of whatever cams you desire require for optimal performance.
Of course that kind of power increase leads to a beefier clutch...and the hole just gets deeper.

 

My '96 on my prior 2009 was a good engine, but if you want torque, go with Andrews 48h. If you want even more, get some factory take off 103's (if you can find some) or overbore to 103.. Then you have best of both worlds - lotsa grunt, and reliable cylinder size. And the extra is good economy.

 

The 96" motors were reliable but anemic. The latter can be solved with a cam upgrade. The compensators can be a weak link but not all experience issues. I switched mine out for the SE model back when it started acting up. Even with the motor built up to a 107 it has held up fine. I wouldn't mess with it until/if it becomes a problem. I had close to 60K on my 09 with the original comp in it.

The only real PITA issue that I had with the 96" motors is not so much the motor as it is the throttle position sensor connector on the back side of the the throttle body. Those connections become fretted over time and can throw the bike into limp mode unit the connector is taken apart and the contacts cleaned. This connection should be reviewed as part of a maintenance program so you don't experience the issue at an inopportune time.

 

hey Todd-67. I’m have been having that throttle position sensor problem going on lately. It has not left me stranded. Yet. I usually just clear the code and keep going. I did talk with my indie bike garage guy and he had me lube up the connection with dielectric grease. So far so good. I’m curious how you can clean those contacts? Is that something I can do myself?

thanks

 

Generally spraying everything down with contact cleaner and working the connectors on and off a few times will do the trick followed by that electrical contact grease. If the problem persist the contacts can be de-pinned and cleaned up with a pencil eraser with contact cleaner. If the contacts are fretted badly then you can install new contacts and push them back into the connector. I never had to go to that level to fix it.

The issue seems to be caused by the wiring harness being on the short side and being pulled too tight on the connector when the motor is running/vibrating. There were small extension harnesses being sold on ebay and the like back when this became a known issue. I am not sure if those are still floating around or not.

Usually if you make cleaning and re-greasing the connection part of your maintenance routine when you change the oil the problem is mitigated.

 

Thank you.
it’s definitely something I will be checking on routinely now. I did notice the bike fires up much better and seems to run better after I lubed it up. the wires seem to be ok. But I’m going to inspect closer now.

 

I’m still running the stock comp in my ‘12 RK with a 130+ hp 107, I wouldn’t replace it until it needs replaced. If you just want to put a cam in, tune it, and ride, the SE255 works well in a 96” and you can find low mileage take-outs from the CVO 110

 

Harpwrench…..
what did you go with on your build to get those numbers? 130hp ??

 

Ported 110 heads, Kury TC46 cams

 

Do a search, hot start problems with SE255's. ACR's recommended.