Oil in forward jug
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Ok, so, I'll take the motor out, redo the rings (being sure to note the positioning of the rings) and while at it do the valves. Should I buy all new valves and springs, or just the seals? Springs would probably wear out with use, but valves?
Thanks again for the guidance and lessons.
Thanks again for the guidance and lessons.
#13
Ok, so, I'll take the motor out, redo the rings (being sure to note the positioning of the rings) and while at it do the valves. Should I buy all new valves and springs, or just the seals? Springs would probably wear out with use, but valves? Thanks again for the guidance and lessons.
If you don't have, can't borrow, don't want to buy the compression and leak down testing equipment. Pull the top end, no need to "take the motor out". Find a shop or tech that knows Harleys and have the cylinder bores checked in torque plates and pistons measured to confirm, or not, that piston to cylinder fitment is within service limits and the cylinders have a true bore. If not, and cylinders can be bored to 3.938", buy new pistons/rings, gapped and install properly, replace the valve guide seals and re-install the top end. Break in properly and problem should be solved.
You are going to find something awry when you tear down the top end.
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#17
The OP says the issue is limited to the front cylinder. Testing before tear down might reveal that the rear cylinder is OK. For sure the front cylinder has to come down but what would it hurt to test and maybe find that the rear cylinder doesn't need to come down?
#18
A compression or leak test can tell you if the cylinder is bad but it doesn't necessarily tell you it's good.
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