I have searched this forum for my issue. That being said, I have read quite a few threads with similar problems. I have some knowledge on what I need do. But would like input on my situation.
Bike is a 2004 EGLIDE with about 14000 miles. I opened up the CAM chest about a month ago and the outside tensioner was halfway gone. That being said, I ordered a new updated cam plate, oil pump and cams. I did not run a compression test or leak down prior to the tear down. I honestly did not think it was needed. I wasn't having any issues with the bike prior to teardown of the CAM chest. I got everything back together and bike fired right up. The valve train was a little noisy, but I didn't think much of it as it is usually not quiet. Went for a ride, about 70ish miles. I went easy at first, but eventually got into the throttle. Bike was breaking up around 4200 rpm and when I got home I noticed oil down the side of the bike. I re-read directions that came with the lifters (woods) and then checked on the adjustable push rods that I have (Screaming eagle). I realized that I was a half a turn too loose. so I went in and readjusted the pushrods. I backed them all the way off and readjusted from zero lash. I was at approx .105" when I should have been at .125". After this adjustment, my valve train noise seemed to quiet down a bit and the bike is no longer breaking up at 4200 rpm. Still breaks up a bit closer to 5K but that may be a tuning issue. Can misadjusted pushrods cause that much of an issue?

The one thing that is not correct, is the oil puking from the breather. I finally pinpointed it to the breather today. I checked pushrod tubes and they look good. But there was a fair amount of oil coming from the air filter cover.

I used all new part and o-rings in the cam chest. I was careful to align the oil pump as per the manual and don't think there is a problem with the o-rings. Everything in the chest went to together pretty easy. Runout on the flywheel was at max .003"

Compression tests yielded 150 PSI in the rear cylinder and 175 in the front. This seems to be pretty far apart to me. I have not done a leak down test, but everything I am reading is telling me to do a leak down. So I will order a tester today.

All parts used were procured from wood performance.
tw5 cam
screaming eagle oil pump
harley cam plate (hydraulic)
knight prowler lifters
screaming eagle adjustable push rods.

Do any of you guys have any other guidance?

I don't know much about leak down testing. But I will figure it out.

Can the differential in compression from each cylinder cause any issues with the crank?

I just can't put my finger on the issue. It's odd to me that i had no issues with oil prior to the CAM swap. Now it is blowing out beyond the amount it should be.

 

For starters, why are your breathers still routed to the air cleaner? Next, is your oil over full? If not, your breather (umbrella) valves are most likely in need of replacing. While you're in there to do this, drill the drain holes under them to .125 or so and replace the breather assembly with the new stamped units.
Then check with DK Customs about an external breather kit or make your own but get it OUT of the intake tract.

Wow, I missed the compression test results. Do a leak down test for sure. Also, '04/'05s had junk intake valve seals.
And still get those breathers OUT of the intake!!! I would still replace the breather assemblies and drill out the drain holes or you'll be dealing with it sooner or later regardless of your issue at hand.
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I was a little higher on my dipstick than normal. I extracted some oil down to the bottom of the fill line on the dipstick. I didn't think to mention this. But oil is definitely not overfilled as of yesterday. And todays ride yielded the same results with the oil leaking. I Should have a leak down tester tomorrow. I will go from there. And also will order umbrella valves. Thanks for the input.

 

If you haven't already, try running the oil level 1/2qt low.

 

Agree on venting head breathes to the atmosphere but think the puking problem should be addressed first.

When oil puking starts following a venture into the cam chest the two usual suspects are pump alingment and poor o-ring seal at the scavenge port. First thing to check is for sumping. Open, carefully, the case plug on the right side of the case and see how much oil come out. If more than 6 ounces, the motor is likely sumping which means another visit to the cam chest to replace the scavenge port o-ring. You can re-align the pump while your at it. If replacing umbrella valves, replace them with the "upgraded" stamped breathers (PN 17025-03A); cheap upgrade and they will come with shorter bolts. Just be sure there is not oil in the bolt bosses before install.

If the motor hasn't been tuned since the cam upgrade that could be the cause of the rough running at higher rpms; pushrod adjustment is not the cause. The variance in compression, assuming the test was run properly with an accurate guage, would cause me to take a look at the timing marks on the inner cam gears. One tooth off and the motor will start and run but won't run as it should. One tooth off ususally will show a variance of 30psi between cylinders.

Get the oli issue sorted first and check the alignment of the inner cam gear timing marks just to be sure cam timing is correct. Then get the motor tuned.

 

Djl. I will check the oil tomorrow. Is this the pipe plug on the bottom of the right case? I will keep this thread up to date. Thanks to everybody so far for the input.

 

Yes. You should not have to strong arm the plug to remove it. Use some pipe thread sealant when putting it back and, again, no strong arm. It is tapered and can crack the case of over tightened.

 

Don has the right idea about the cam timing. 25 psi is too much. With all new parts and oil blowing out the breather, about the only things that could happen is a pinched O ring or improper pump alignment. Maybe ring seal or breather valve but the breathers were good until you messed with the bike. Too high of an oil level, fer sure lower it. You don't give a mention about mileage or fuel system but the bike will need to be tuned.. Look at the plugs..

 

Well. There’s looks to be right at 6 ozs of oil from the bottom plug on the case. So looks like I’m going back in. But looked like that might be the case anyway with the compression being off and having to check timing marks.

bike has a little under 14k on it
carbed bike with a dynatek ignition
#48 and 1.95 jets in the bike.

Im going to start tearing into the chest tonight. Hopefully I’ll be able to give some updates soon.

thanks for the assistance so far.

 

I would check the cam timing but like other have said, especially if you run at freeway speeds to lower the oil level in the tank.

I'm not too hot on Dynatek TC ignitions.. But that's really another issue..