Cam installed, few questions
#1
Cam installed, few questions
I just finished installing a Woods 222 in my 2011 RGU 103". Install went good, took me about 5.5 hours total. I am running on a FuelMoto tune and PV1. Bike has stock header with no cat, S&S MK45s with dB reducers, SE air filter and now the cam.
On the first start it made a little lifter noise but quieted down in just a few seconds, after that it's as quiet as stock.
Noticed a few things, first the throttle by wire seems less responsive, like it has more dead space at idle, then takes more rotation to Rev it up. Gives the feeling the motor is less responsive. Wonder if this can be tuned.
Next, on the first ride, it seems to run pretty close to stock, I'm not feeling a lot more power. It has a different sound from the intake, and the exhaust is louder. Granted I only took one ride for 30 minutes and didn't beat it as I was looking for leaks and any weird sounds. I'm going to try and do 3 auto tunes before I bother FM.
Just don't understand how some guys post the bike is now doing wheelies or spinning the tire from a cam swap.
Most likely I'll be getting a dyno tune very soon which will probably address everything I noticed. I guess I was hoping for a more on the first ride.
Not bummed, just realize the job is not done until it gets dyno tuned.
On the first start it made a little lifter noise but quieted down in just a few seconds, after that it's as quiet as stock.
Noticed a few things, first the throttle by wire seems less responsive, like it has more dead space at idle, then takes more rotation to Rev it up. Gives the feeling the motor is less responsive. Wonder if this can be tuned.
Next, on the first ride, it seems to run pretty close to stock, I'm not feeling a lot more power. It has a different sound from the intake, and the exhaust is louder. Granted I only took one ride for 30 minutes and didn't beat it as I was looking for leaks and any weird sounds. I'm going to try and do 3 auto tunes before I bother FM.
Just don't understand how some guys post the bike is now doing wheelies or spinning the tire from a cam swap.
Most likely I'll be getting a dyno tune very soon which will probably address everything I noticed. I guess I was hoping for a more on the first ride.
Not bummed, just realize the job is not done until it gets dyno tuned.
Last edited by Tire_Fryer; 04-24-2022 at 07:03 PM.
#2
#3
I just put Andrews 48H in my 96'' along with a Powervision, got everything from Fuel Moto. I agree with you about the lag/dead spot just above idle, but when I get up to about 2800 rpm ( where the cam really gets going) it runs like a champ. i definetly notice my cam upgrade!! Been wondering if raising the idle rpm would help with that low blip???? I also notice that the bike wants to run at a higher rpm now, which makes sense beacuse the power is coming on at a higher rpm..
Last edited by Hammerhead Pat; 04-25-2022 at 03:33 AM. Reason: additional thought
#4
I just put Andrews 48H in my 96'' along with a Powervision, got everything from Fuel Moto. I agree with you about the lag/dead spot just above idle, but when I get up to about 2800 rpm ( where the cam really gets going) it runs like a champ. i definetly notice my cam upgrade!! Been wondering if raising the idle rpm would help with that low blip???? I also notice that the bike wants to run at a higher rpm now, which makes sense beacuse the power is coming on at a higher rpm..
#5
The 48 cam base circle is a bit smaller than stock so, with sloppy factory tolerances, there could be a small amount of lash in the valve train stack up with stock pushrods. A set of adjustable pushrod or a set of +.030" HD pushrods or a set of made to fit fixed length pushrods from Smith Brothers should solve the issue.
#6
Still running OEM lifters?
The 48 cam base circle is a bit smaller than stock so, with sloppy factory tolerances, there could be a small amount of lash in the valve train stack up with stock pushrods. A set of adjustable pushrod or a set of +.030" HD pushrods or a set of made to fit fixed length pushrods from Smith Brothers should solve the issue.
The 48 cam base circle is a bit smaller than stock so, with sloppy factory tolerances, there could be a small amount of lash in the valve train stack up with stock pushrods. A set of adjustable pushrod or a set of +.030" HD pushrods or a set of made to fit fixed length pushrods from Smith Brothers should solve the issue.
#7
I am running the Mobil 1 20W-50 Twin oil and Woods alpha lifters, its every bit as quiet as stock, maybe more quiet.
@Hammerhead Pat Have you done any auto tune sessions yet?
I wouldn't mess with the idle speed, there are settings in the PV-1 for throttle blade but I can't access them, must have a restricted license or something. Supposedly you can tune out some of the dead area. I'd like to have the throttle set to a little more aggressive setting, so you don't have to twist so far to get into the meat of the power. Seems like my throttle turns almost a whole revolution.
The guys at FM told me I need to drive in a higher RPM band, I was lugging the motor from 2K and shifting around 3K normally, They told ne to stay in the upper 2000's and shift at 3500 or higher. Going to start doing that as well.
While I have the db reducers in my S&S MK45's (round pipe that goes into the baffle) I'm going to modify them so they look like the ones FM sells with the tongue sticking in the exhaust flow. I still don't think I have enough back pressure in my exhaust. Probably a mistake to buy a 4.5" slip on with a 2.5" baffle for such a small motor. They do have a nice deep sound though.
Going to do 3 auto tune sessions next, I've read people have had some good improvements.
@Hammerhead Pat Have you done any auto tune sessions yet?
I wouldn't mess with the idle speed, there are settings in the PV-1 for throttle blade but I can't access them, must have a restricted license or something. Supposedly you can tune out some of the dead area. I'd like to have the throttle set to a little more aggressive setting, so you don't have to twist so far to get into the meat of the power. Seems like my throttle turns almost a whole revolution.
The guys at FM told me I need to drive in a higher RPM band, I was lugging the motor from 2K and shifting around 3K normally, They told ne to stay in the upper 2000's and shift at 3500 or higher. Going to start doing that as well.
While I have the db reducers in my S&S MK45's (round pipe that goes into the baffle) I'm going to modify them so they look like the ones FM sells with the tongue sticking in the exhaust flow. I still don't think I have enough back pressure in my exhaust. Probably a mistake to buy a 4.5" slip on with a 2.5" baffle for such a small motor. They do have a nice deep sound though.
Going to do 3 auto tune sessions next, I've read people have had some good improvements.
Last edited by Tire_Fryer; 04-25-2022 at 11:08 AM.
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#8
I redid everything while in there, Woods night Prowler lifters along with FM adjustable pushrods, 4 turns on the pushrods like the instructions on the lifters said. I added Rockouts at the same time, my valvetrain is quiet!!
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#9
I am running the Mobil 1 20W-50 Twin oil and Woods alpha lifters, its every bit as quiet as stock, maybe more quiet.
@Hammerhead Pat Have you done any auto tune sessions yet?
I wouldn't mess with the idle speed, there are settings in the PV-1 for throttle blade but I can't access them, must have a restricted license or something. Supposedly you can tune out some of the dead area. I'd like to have the throttle set to a little more aggressive setting, so you don't have to twist so far to get into the meat of the power. Seems like my throttle turns almost a whole revolution.
The guys at FM told me I need to drive in a higher RPM band, I was lugging the motor from 2K and shifting around 3K normally, They told ne to stay in the upper 2000's and shift at 3500 or higher. Going to start doing that as well.
While I have the db reducers in my S&S MK45's (round pipe that goes into the baffle) I'm going to modify them so they look like the ones FM sells with the tongue sticking in the exhaust flow. I still don't think I have enough back pressure in my exhaust. Probably a mistake to buy a 4.5" slip on with a 2.5" baffle for such a small motor. They do have a nice deep sound though.
Going to do 3 auto tune sessions next, I've read people have had some good improvements.
@Hammerhead Pat Have you done any auto tune sessions yet?
I wouldn't mess with the idle speed, there are settings in the PV-1 for throttle blade but I can't access them, must have a restricted license or something. Supposedly you can tune out some of the dead area. I'd like to have the throttle set to a little more aggressive setting, so you don't have to twist so far to get into the meat of the power. Seems like my throttle turns almost a whole revolution.
The guys at FM told me I need to drive in a higher RPM band, I was lugging the motor from 2K and shifting around 3K normally, They told ne to stay in the upper 2000's and shift at 3500 or higher. Going to start doing that as well.
While I have the db reducers in my S&S MK45's (round pipe that goes into the baffle) I'm going to modify them so they look like the ones FM sells with the tongue sticking in the exhaust flow. I still don't think I have enough back pressure in my exhaust. Probably a mistake to buy a 4.5" slip on with a 2.5" baffle for such a small motor. They do have a nice deep sound though.
Going to do 3 auto tune sessions next, I've read people have had some good improvements.
#10
I am running the Mobil 1 20W-50 Twin oil and Woods alpha lifters, its every bit as quiet as stock, maybe more quiet.
@Hammerhead Pat Have you done any auto tune sessions yet?
I wouldn't mess with the idle speed, there are settings in the PV-1 for throttle blade but I can't access them, must have a restricted license or something. Supposedly you can tune out some of the dead area. I'd like to have the throttle set to a little more aggressive setting, so you don't have to twist so far to get into the meat of the power. Seems like my throttle turns almost a whole revolution.
The guys at FM told me I need to drive in a higher RPM band, I was lugging the motor from 2K and shifting around 3K normally, They told ne to stay in the upper 2000's and shift at 3500 or higher. Going to start doing that as well.
While I have the db reducers in my S&S MK45's (round pipe that goes into the baffle) I'm going to modify them so they look like the ones FM sells with the tongue sticking in the exhaust flow. I still don't think I have enough back pressure in my exhaust. Probably a mistake to buy a 4.5" slip on with a 2.5" baffle for such a small motor. They do have a nice deep sound though.
Going to do 3 auto tune sessions next, I've read people have had some good improvements.
@Hammerhead Pat Have you done any auto tune sessions yet?
I wouldn't mess with the idle speed, there are settings in the PV-1 for throttle blade but I can't access them, must have a restricted license or something. Supposedly you can tune out some of the dead area. I'd like to have the throttle set to a little more aggressive setting, so you don't have to twist so far to get into the meat of the power. Seems like my throttle turns almost a whole revolution.
The guys at FM told me I need to drive in a higher RPM band, I was lugging the motor from 2K and shifting around 3K normally, They told ne to stay in the upper 2000's and shift at 3500 or higher. Going to start doing that as well.
While I have the db reducers in my S&S MK45's (round pipe that goes into the baffle) I'm going to modify them so they look like the ones FM sells with the tongue sticking in the exhaust flow. I still don't think I have enough back pressure in my exhaust. Probably a mistake to buy a 4.5" slip on with a 2.5" baffle for such a small motor. They do have a nice deep sound though.
Going to do 3 auto tune sessions next, I've read people have had some good improvements.