TwinCam project bike upgrade for durability
#12
#13
#14
Ive done the inner cam and cam plate bearings twice. Once at 34k, and again at 87k. Whatever bearings S&S sells in their kit.
I did them at 34k when I went to gears. I did them second time when I had open just for heck of it.
Problem with doing them at 12k is you need to buy the tools, or you need to split the cases to press in and out. If you have the tool and had cam chest open, I guess you could do it. But 12k isn't much.
I would not even inspect cam shoes at 12k. I'd just ride it.
I did them at 34k when I went to gears. I did them second time when I had open just for heck of it.
Problem with doing them at 12k is you need to buy the tools, or you need to split the cases to press in and out. If you have the tool and had cam chest open, I guess you could do it. But 12k isn't much.
I would not even inspect cam shoes at 12k. I'd just ride it.
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Wrechar (04-13-2022)
#15
Robarosa and 88 have it right. CYCO tensioner shoes, Koyo/Timken inner cam bearings and upgrade the head breathers to the later stamped version (PN 17025-03A). I would also vent the head breathers to the atmosphere; plenty of YouTube "how to" videos and members also have posted pictures of their DIY systems.
I have assumed that the bike is EFI and, if so, spend the money to get the motor dyno tuned when done. The cam and air filter upgrade will need tuning to optimize the mild boost in performance. Most tuners these days sell a Power Vision license so the customer doesn't have to buy the hardware/software; just pay for the license and tune.
#16
Withj 12k miles, I would just ride it. Wait and see what leaks. If you don't want any more power, I wouldn't do anything for awhile, and then inspect cam chain tensioner pads.
But I think a 95" with low compression, and mild cam would add a lot, and not hur reliability. But if you don't want to, just ride it.
But I think a 95" with low compression, and mild cam would add a lot, and not hur reliability. But if you don't want to, just ride it.
#17
Ive done the inner cam and cam plate bearings twice. Once at 34k, and again at 87k. Whatever bearings S&S sells in their kit.
I did them at 34k when I went to gears. I did them second time when I had open just for heck of it.
Problem with doing them at 12k is you need to buy the tools, or you need to split the cases to press in and out. If you have the tool and had cam chest open, I guess you could do it. But 12k isn't much.
I would not even inspect cam shoes at 12k. I'd just ride it.
I did them at 34k when I went to gears. I did them second time when I had open just for heck of it.
Problem with doing them at 12k is you need to buy the tools, or you need to split the cases to press in and out. If you have the tool and had cam chest open, I guess you could do it. But 12k isn't much.
I would not even inspect cam shoes at 12k. I'd just ride it.
#18
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Wrechar (04-15-2022)
#20
Thanks for the additional information. Should you add a mild bolt in cam, that might require a jettng change and a needle adjustment. If going to 95"/98" it would be a must but at 88", maybe not so much; just have to ride and see what the motor wants.
Last edited by djl; 04-13-2022 at 06:03 PM.