Twin Cam Motors Twin Cam 1998 thru 2017

TwinCam project bike upgrade for durability

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  #11  
Old 04-13-2022, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Rounders
Not sure I would worry about bearings at 12k.
Not the outers for sure. But at about $15 the inners for sure. Then peace of mind for a long time.
 
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Old 04-13-2022, 12:39 PM
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12k isn't much. I've replaced mine twice
 
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Old 04-13-2022, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rounders
12k isn't much. I've replaced mine twice
At what mileage? Cyco both times?
 
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Old 04-13-2022, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by brakeless
At what mileage? Cyco both times?
Ive done the inner cam and cam plate bearings twice. Once at 34k, and again at 87k. Whatever bearings S&S sells in their kit.

I did them at 34k when I went to gears. I did them second time when I had open just for heck of it.

Problem with doing them at 12k is you need to buy the tools, or you need to split the cases to press in and out. If you have the tool and had cam chest open, I guess you could do it. But 12k isn't much.

I would not even inspect cam shoes at 12k. I'd just ride it.
 
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Old 04-13-2022, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
Robarosa and 88 have it right. CYCO tensioner shoes, Koyo/Timken inner cam bearings and upgrade the head breathers to the later stamped version (PN 17025-03A). I would also vent the head breathers to the atmosphere; plenty of YouTube "how to" videos and members also have posted pictures of their DIY systems.
Changing the configuration of the breather bolts is definitely on the list, but I hadn't written it down. Thanks for the reminder.

Originally Posted by djl
I have assumed that the bike is EFI and, if so, spend the money to get the motor dyno tuned when done. The cam and air filter upgrade will need tuning to optimize the mild boost in performance. Most tuners these days sell a Power Vision license so the customer doesn't have to buy the hardware/software; just pay for the license and tune.
Also thanks for the pointing out that I left off a lot of probably useful description. The bike is actually carbureted and not EFI.

Originally Posted by djl
'02 is a great year. My last project bike was an '02 FLHT; should never have sold it.
Always the way it goes. I still look at photos of my 86 sporty like an old girlfriend that I never should have broken up with, lol.

 
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Old 04-13-2022, 05:07 PM
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Withj 12k miles, I would just ride it. Wait and see what leaks. If you don't want any more power, I wouldn't do anything for awhile, and then inspect cam chain tensioner pads.

But I think a 95" with low compression, and mild cam would add a lot, and not hur reliability. But if you don't want to, just ride it.
 
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Old 04-13-2022, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rounders
Ive done the inner cam and cam plate bearings twice. Once at 34k, and again at 87k. Whatever bearings S&S sells in their kit.

I did them at 34k when I went to gears. I did them second time when I had open just for heck of it.

Problem with doing them at 12k is you need to buy the tools, or you need to split the cases to press in and out. If you have the tool and had cam chest open, I guess you could do it. But 12k isn't much.

I would not even inspect cam shoes at 12k. I'd just ride it.
Split the cases? For the Inner Bearings? You can buy a tool for $70!
 
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Old 04-13-2022, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rounders
Problem with doing them at 12k is you need to buy the tools, or you need to split the cases to press in and out. If you have the tool and had cam chest open, I guess you could do it. But 12k isn't much. I would not even inspect cam shoes at 12k. I'd just ride it.
Well, no disrespect intended but you have to buy the tools whenever the decision is made to replace the inner cam bearings and no one would ever split the cases to change inner cam bearings if that is what you meant. The OEM tensioner shoes were toast at 12.5K miles on my '05 FXSTD; the outer was partially gone and the chain was in contact with the metal carrier; the inner was nearly as bad; gear drive cams was the fix for me. The OP is looking for "durablity' upgrades and replacing the OEM tensioner shoes with gear driven cams or a set of CYCOs is definintely an upgrade. If the OP has the funds and crank runout is less than .003" gear driven cams is a permanent fix. With the CYCO shoes; he can forget about them for 20K-25K miles which is 2-3 seasons for most. Either fix requires opening up the cam chest so why not upgrade to full compliment inner cam bearings? If the OP doesn't want to buy the tools, there is a work around for that as well.
 
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Old 04-13-2022, 05:51 PM
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Old 04-13-2022, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrechar
The bike is actually carbureted and not EFI.
Thanks for the additional information. Should you add a mild bolt in cam, that might require a jettng change and a needle adjustment. If going to 95"/98" it would be a must but at 88", maybe not so much; just have to ride and see what the motor wants.
 

Last edited by djl; 04-13-2022 at 06:03 PM.
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