Scott thinks he can source them for me. Just got my work sheet back from Andrew at Darkhorse. Looks like my lifter bores are in good shape. Surprised with that many miles on it. Can't say the same about my oil pump. Housing looks to be pretty scared. Was going to put a SE oil pump in since I have several K worth of rewards points but HD has about quit making things for it. 07 and newer pumps.

 

Could've helped ya with those too but for 07 and up. For the best of the best the DT 3 stage pump and plate. But in your case, stock replacement is just fine.

 

Be certain to have Dark Horse replace the case threads for the bolts. on their price sheet it's the last item under case work - Machine crankcases (ALL 8) stud insert upgrade $254.95. this will keep the engine together after the rebuild. you don't want to go forward with out it, the aluminum threads aren't standing up to rebuilds. I have two engines that the studs have pulled out one (124) within 3500 miles and a 110 within 6000 miles.

 

I think the studs pulling out is more an issue when using the high tensile strength studs that don't stretch and why I rep!aced mine with oem studs that do. Only reason I even replaced them at all was because I pulled the original ones when I boxed it up to have an S&S crank installed.
​​​​Just my

 

60 Gunner, both cases used the OEM studs. One was built by HD local shop the other went to Dark Horse. They have a video discussing the issue and showing their response. Since this happened to me I did a search on this and other forums to find it is a common issue with rebuilds where the factory setup is disturbed. Aluminum just doesn't like being screwed with. Had similar issues with my all Aluminum Corvair Motor. Had the machine work been done by Dark Horse when the rest of the work was being done I wouldn't be sending the motor out to them for the repair 3000 miles after it was built. $260 would have been much cheaper.

 

Yea that's what I'm look at. Looks like one side of the plate is warn pretty bad as well. Trotline weight?

 

I'm having Darkhorse replace the studs in house but wasn't planning to do the inserts. Now you got me thinking. I paid Andrew today as they are ready to start. Scott is calling tomorrow with the piston weights. I'm sure going to talk to Darkhorse about it. With what I've all ready spent I could have dropped in a 124 crate. Of course I knew that going in. Just didn't plan on replacing everything all most. Crank case and cam case will be brand new and upgraded. Of course cylinders, pistons and heads completely remachined/new. New carb, manifold, SE starter, Venable pressure clutch . I haven't even gone threw the rockers assembly or primary yet. Oh yea dropped a compression ring once apone a time. Money pit BUT he'll still be my old boy when done and I know I did the biggest part myself. Pluse I'm honored to still have my 84 year old Dad who wrenched on everything from twin jet props in the Army, Outboard motor dealership, Ford motor company and 50 year old lawn mower engines on his back bench watching when he feels like it. Thats priceless. 😉

 

nothing worse than being packed up and heading, getting hundreds of miles in nowhere and having the new motor let go because of a $260 preventive measure was skipped.

 

Hmmm...be interesting to hear from some of builders here on how many motors they've had or seen with a pulled stud. Not doubting anyone here but it's just not something I've heard or read about happening "alot". I've had my personal motor apart a few times for various stages of performance upgrades, once for a darkhorse crank. Same ol factory studs with 75k on the motor...sure hope I didn't just jinx myself lol.

 

While I don't doubt he had it happen and twice at that, most builders that responded to a question about studs recently attribute the problem to studs that don't stretch like I said. Many don't replace the oem studs.
So while unfortunate, I don't see it as a widespread occurrence when using oem studs that stretch.