2001 FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic

Stage 1 SE

Just reached 48000 miles before tensioner gave up.

My question is what I should do moving forward. I’ve opened my cam chest and the hard coating is worn from the cams and some pitting on a couple of the lobes so I have some decisions to make. I also separated the piston from the cylinder going after a rear gasket leak since I was in there, so to speak. I suppose I could have removed the wrist pin and replaced the base/head gasket without separating but here I am. I also figured I might as well freshen it up since I’m doing the gasket and I’m near 50k…..snowball ensued

Anyway, I’ve checked my runout and I’m just at or slightly under .002” - I’ve read about backlash but I don’t know exactly how to measure - I see the spec is .001 or less. Maybe just avoid the gear setup altogether since those tolerances are so tight and they could eventually move out of spec? Install over my head as a beginner? Too noisy in hot/humid climate?

I started this with an intention of just the tensioner replacement. I’ve obviously gotten in deeper.

From what I’ve searched it looks like I can do several things with the cam plate & Andrews cams:

Stock plate\ Andrews TW21, TW26A

25355-06A 2007 Stock hydraulic cam plate\ Andrews TW21N or TW26N conversion cams

Hydraulic tensioner plate\Andrews 21 or 26A

Stock plate with Gear drive cam\ Andrews TW21G or 26G

Should I go with an Andrews 26G and convert to gear drive for a nice even curve in the 2-4.5 RPM range - is that a realistic range? I want to keep this bike forever - I’ve ridden 28000 miles in the last 10 months so I like to ride. I want something smooth and close to stock as I can but I want to add logical upgrades where I can without moving away from stock but still being “future proof” for a 95 bore in the future for ex.

I also don’t know if a gear drive conversion should be done. Is .002 too close to the .003 runout spec.? Should I just replace the tensioners and go with an Andrews 26A and go with what I have. Or a different cam altogether. I’m a somewhat aggressive rider but not a speed demon. I ride solo, no bags. I ride curvy, hilly mountainous roads as much as I can - just returned from a 10 day 5k road trip through Colorado and back, for example. I also do day to day cruising on simple hilly farmland roads.

Anyway, I’ve heard a lot of good things about Scott from Hillside so I’m planning on sending there. Just trying to get a plan of action.

Maybe I’m making it too complicated and should replace stock manual tensioner and get appropriate cam and have cylinders honed, valve job, new rings and call it good.

I hope this wall of text finds you well and thank you for any help/suggestions

 

Welcome to the forum.

For TC88
Gear will have a little more noise than chain drive. Some like it, some don't.
Of those cams go with the Andrews 21 what ever drive setup.
A lot of choices on gear, conversion or staying with original type chain setup.
If staying with original type chain, use Cyco shoes. Probably last 40,000+ miles.
There are tools that making changing the inside tensioner easy.
Search the forum. Lot of info either way you go.
My .02 cents.

 

I say go with the gear drive and be done with it. On my 2000 Heritage I installed S&S 509 gear drive cams. I love the low end torque and the nice lope at idle. Your runout is well within specs for gear drive. Have fun on the rebuild

 

If gear driven cams are in the budget, that's the way to go. .002" runout is fine for gear driven cams. Early TC motors have nearly bullet proof cranks. The S&S 509 would be a good fit for the way the OP rides IMHO. Purchase the complete kit, cams, gears, bearings, etc. If you stay at 88", honing cylinders, valve job, rings, etc. sound good but if you decide to go to 95"/98", another there are other cams choices. Scott/Hillside Cycles or Kirby/VeeTwin Performance both offer 96"/98" "kits" at reasonable prices; at 48K miles, I would be looking hard at 98". This is a DIY project; there are work arounds for the cam/bearing R/R and lots of help on this forum. In either event you should include a fuel management system and dyno tuning as part of the project.

 

Installed gear drive cams at 83,000 on my '00 FLTR (my tensioners lasted a long time!) and just hit 170,000 earlier this year (and haven't peeked into the cam chest once during that time.) It's the way to go on a '00 to '02 motor. I think i had about $575 into the swap.

 

I put Andrews 21 conversion cams with newer stock cam plate I’m my TC88. Love it. Pull right off idle, doesn’t fall flat at higher rpm’s. Not a ***** to the wall redline cam though.

 

If you're dealing with Scott, I wouldn't worry about cam plate conversion or gear drives... You should be good with what you have.. I think you would be better off putting money into his $1,000 98 inch kit with cams. He won't steer you wrong...
And don't forget to replace the inner Cam bearing....

 

I had planned on replacing inner cam bearings since I'm going to need new cams. Is the Koyo Torrington B-148 the one to go with or is there a better brand?

I really like the idea of the 98" hot rod or touring kit examples on the Hillside website but I think it would lead me to replacing carb and/or exhaust? Unless my SE stage 1 kit could be utilized or bored like the touring example

Since it is a carb bike what kind of tuner is there for that or is that only for EFI bikes?

Its looking more and more like the stock way is what I should focus on with an Andrews 21 gear drive cam or just replace stock cam tensioners and a set of Andrews 21 chain cams. That would be the easiest way out and a solid replacement. Do a hone of cylinder, new rings, valve job and call it.

I really like the look of that 98" kit but it just seems like the "and you'll need this" list just keeps going. If I had a complete list "out the door" kinda price I would probably do it. I just suspect exhaust, carb/intake and possibly air cleaner would also have to be replaced. Maybe I'm wrong though.

Thanks for all the responses. Really appreciate it.

 

If you did the 98" kit you would not have to go any further.. You pipes, A/C and carb are all fine.. You will just need to rejet..That CV carb is good to 100" you'll just need to learn how to tune it with plug reading or get an AFR gauge and install an o2 bung in the front pipe.

 

What? A flat top 98 kit will move the CR from 8.6 to 1 to 9.5 to 1. Both the 26 and 21 have earlier intake close and overlap. Corrected and dynamic compression will increase. The timing will need adjusting.