Originally Posted by Max Headflow

What? A flat top 98 kit will move the CR from 8.6 to 1 to 9.5 to 1. Both the 26 and 21 have earlier intake close and overlap. Corrected and dynamic compression will increase. The timing will need adjusting.

Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy

I did not think he already purchased the cam and by getting a kit from Scott I'm sure the 2 cam choices of his would have been thrown out the window.. Didn't think I needed to spell everything out but yes higher compression would bring different cams into play....

Originally Posted by CitizenHD

2001 FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic

Stage 1 SE

Just reached 48000 miles before tensioner gave up.

My question is what I should do moving forward. I’ve opened my cam chest and the hard coating is worn from the cams and some pitting on a couple of the lobes so I have some decisions to make. I also separated the piston from the cylinder going after a rear gasket leak since I was in there, so to speak. I suppose I could have removed the wrist pin and replaced the base/head gasket without separating but here I am. I also figured I might as well freshen it up since I’m doing the gasket and I’m near 50k…..snowball ensued

Anyway, I’ve checked my runout and I’m just at or slightly under .002” - I’ve read about backlash but I don’t know exactly how to measure - I see the spec is .001 or less. Maybe just avoid the gear setup altogether since those tolerances are so tight and they could eventually move out of spec? Install over my head as a beginner? Too noisy in hot/humid climate?

I started this with an intention of just the tensioner replacement. I’ve obviously gotten in deeper.

From what I’ve searched it looks like I can do several things with the cam plate & Andrews cams:

Stock plate\ Andrews TW21, TW26A

25355-06A 2007 Stock hydraulic cam plate\ Andrews TW21N or TW26N conversion cams

Hydraulic tensioner plate\Andrews 21 or 26A

Stock plate with Gear drive cam\ Andrews TW21G or 26G

Should I go with an Andrews 26G and convert to gear drive for a nice even curve in the 2-4.5 RPM range - is that a realistic range? I want to keep this bike forever - I’ve ridden 28000 miles in the last 10 months so I like to ride. I want something smooth and close to stock as I can but I want to add logical upgrades where I can without moving away from stock but still being “future proof” for a 95 bore in the future for ex.

I also don’t know if a gear drive conversion should be done. Is .002 too close to the .003 runout spec.? Should I just replace the tensioners and go with an Andrews 26A and go with what I have. Or a different cam altogether. I’m a somewhat aggressive rider but not a speed demon. I ride solo, no bags. I ride curvy, hilly mountainous roads as much as I can - just returned from a 10 day 5k road trip through Colorado and back, for example. I also do day to day cruising on simple hilly farmland roads.

Anyway, I’ve heard a lot of good things about Scott from Hillside so I’m planning on sending there. Just trying to get a plan of action.

Maybe I’m making it too complicated and should replace stock manual tensioner and get appropriate cam and have cylinders honed, valve job, new rings and call it good.

I hope this wall of text finds you well and thank you for any help/suggestions

Originally Posted by CitizenHD

Yes, I'm just staying with what I have and not converting to gear drive.

Trying to decide on cam at this point.

You actually have to pull the front exhaust to get that cover off but I know what you're saying. Just a little more than 10 minutes.