I've had my Dyna for 4 years now and have tried to do all the work myself, but I'm still new at this "do-it-yourself" maintenance thing and have run into a skill/knowledge gap. After adding new primary fluid, I stripped the threading of one of the 5 screw mounts to the primary case. I used an inch lbs. torque wrench set to 95 and still managed to do this. Because I'm learning this as I go, I expect to run into things like this, and that's OK. Now how do I fix this? Thanks all.

 

Did you use a T27 bit?

 

if you are saying its the threads, re tap it or helicoil it...if it is the torx head, drill it out/extract but try stuffing the next size over in first. start out easy then ramp it up to the surgery of drilling and extracting...

 

My mistake. He said he "stripped the thread" after adding primary fluid. I usually just go hand tight. Could you go for next closest size over of tap, either metric or standard and rethread before going the helicoil route?

Jim

 

I have seen it before when using torque specs etc. I once saw a feller over torque his universal joint strap bolt on his GM vehicle. he snapped the bolt and couldn't drive the car home...that was a bad day

A good thing to remember is if they are small size bolts they wont get torqued too heavy, bolts have a torque recommendation based on size, sometimes hand tight is good etc. Finesse comes with experience

 

This is a HUGE pet peeve of mine. For something that is a regular maintenance item, and has to be re and re'd often (in my case, I average 3 oil services per year @ 5000 mile intervals + the times I need to pull the derby cover to adjust the clutch), they should have installed steel inserts into the outer primary case to accept the steel derby cover and (for pre-06 models) inspection cover screws. I have stripped every derby cover screw hole in 2 outer primary covers, and I go low on the torque for them. The only fix is to either Heli-coil or use another thread repair. I've had the Heli-coil repairs fail, so the last time I needed to repair this stupid design, which was a few days ago, I used E-Z LOK inserts (this is the kit I used: ).
They're solid, as opposed to spiral wire like Heli-coils, and come with red Locktite pre-applied to help lock them into the aluminum case.

Others have also recommended Timeserts, but I have no experience with them

One piece of advice: do your best to NOT drill all the way through the blind holes. If you do, you'll have leaks, and you'll need to seal them up. My holes were drilled all the way through by the shop that did the repairs the first time, many, many years ago, so I used JB Weld High Heat Epoxy Putty ( ), and it works like a charm. Just make sure you don't apply it too thick, or the clutch basket will chew it up.

Cheers!

 

You stripped the threads them cuz you torqued em too tight. I've put over 200000 miles on different HDs with primary oil changes at 2500 to 4000 and still have yet to strip one out.

 

I only torque them to 80 inch pounds, I do at leas t five oil changes a year and take that derby cover off with no problems and have never stripped the threads or had the bolts come loose. The factory service manual states the torque too high

 

While I've never stripped a derby cover bolt, I do now have (2) 5/16" allens and (2) 1/4" allens securing my '00 inspection cover. (I'll blame the previous owner.)

 

Never had a heli-coil fail but **** does happen; heli-coil is the most common repair for this common problem. I don't use a torque wrench on those fasteners, just snug and a half turn does it for me. Good tip from Clammy on carefully drilling whatever repair used.:icon-wink:.