Heat soaked restarts are a symptom of high CCP and high CCP is the direct result of cams with early intake closes or more than usual ground in advance or a weak battery. Having said that 180psi is not high CCP which, knowing the bike is carbed, causes me to wonder about the accuracy of the compression test. The requirements for accurate results from a compression test on a carbed bike are a fully plugs out, fully charged battery and WOT. With a vacuum operated carb like the CV, holding the throttle open does not move the slide up out of the throat of the carburetor resulting in a failed compression test; the carb slide has to be manually held open. I just disconnect the carb and rubber boot from the intake when compression testing a carbed bike. So, if he compression test was performed as outlined above, disregard everything I have just posted and we can move on. However, if the compression test wasn't performed as it should have been, do it again and post the results.

A CCP of 190psi combined with say the SE204 cam with 8* of ground in advance will produce heat soaked kick back on restart; been there, done that and as much as I like the SE204 cams, had to replace them. That combination ran great until ambient temps exceeded 95* and she started to ping. 95* plus is easily three months out of the year in south Texas.

 

Well, I did not even think about the CV carb. I only held the throttle open. So I suppose I better redo my compression test. Drat

 

Just now saw this post for some reason. I have not noticed any lifter noise, but coming from my 110.... ANYTHING seems quiet. That thing was noisey.

Full disclosure: I have only owned 3 Harleys. My wife's Sportster, My 2002 Duece and the 2009 CVO Roadglide I traded off. The rest have been other brands. Also I have no idea what IVC stands for

Intake valve closing?!?!

 

Yes. See, you know more than you thought you did.

Have your battery load tested; any Auto Zone or Advanced Auto will do it for you. Or, if you have a multi-meter, you can run a couple of checks with the battery in the bike. Before you run another compression test, make sure the battery is putting out what it is supposed to or the results will not be accurate. Might even consider replacing the battery; look for a date to see how long it has been in service. Run another compression test and post the results.

https://www.revzilla.com/common-trea...rcycle-battery

 

I plan to replace the battery as it is only 310 CCA and that does not seem like a lot. I did not see a date on it, but it did not look old. however, in my experience, cheap motorcycle batteries sometimes only last about a year. Thanks for the help and sorry it is slow on my end. Kids just hit summer break and that makes for drama and stress at my house LOL

 

310CCA is not enough. IIRC, OEM battery is rated about 450CCA. Pretty sure you can find some in the 400-600CCA range for a bit more $$.

 

So very likely my problem is someone got cheap on a battery replacement and I can just plop a good batry in there and be golden! However I still want to continue on our road and at least see what cams I have. The bike has 66,000 miles on it. Since it has engine work, hard telling how many on any particular engine part, but I am assuming looking at the timing chain tensioners would not be a bad idea, so 2 birds one stone?????.....

 

Replacing the battery with a better one? Why not? Get a tender to keep the battery charged when in the garage. Checking chain tensioners is an absolute "must do" and the sooner the better. Be sure an take pictures; we like pictures.

 

The stock Softail battery is not that high. I happen to have a stock HD Softail battery on my bench here, and it's rated at 315CCA. I have a Yuasa GZ20HL replacement in Reaper, and it's rated for 310/320 CCA. It's plenty to crank over her 98ci @ 10.5:1 CR (with compression releases) engine (even the odd time I forget to push in the CRs ).

There's no way a larger AGM battery could fit in the battery space under the seat. I can't speak for Lithium, though.

I can confidently recommend the Yuasa GZ20HL battery for the OP's bike, should he need a battery.

Cheers!

 

Wiggled in next to the deuce to look at cam cover. (Bike is in the corner as I have a trailer in the shop I am working on and have no room for ANYTHING ELSE) "It appears I will have to remove exhaust to get cam cover. Oh wait.... look at this little round cover. Perhaps I can just remove it. Maybe see the cam. Probably not the tensioners but a quick peak to see what cam is there would be cool. I have room for that." So I pull the little round cover off and "DOH!!!!" there is absolutely nothing to be seen behind it. Yep, felt like a REAL bike mechanic LOL. So another day or so and I will have that blasted trailer out the way and get back to the bike.

I almost asked for a battery recommendation earlier. I have gone the "cheapest I can find n the internet" route more than once and RERGRETED it lol So thank you for throwing that out there.