ok guys, I've got a strange one for you... hopefully someone can help me out because I'm stumped. Most of the bike has been tampered with by yours truly and I'm a YouTube certified tech lol. So the issue I'm having is noise and vibration! Noise sounds like it's coming from primary, happens intermittently, in neutral, in gear, hot and cold. Primary has been rebuilt within 1,000 miles(stator, rotor, se comp, chain, Hayden m6, ipb and race, clutch hub and spring). Seems as though it was fine but I do ride with tunes in my helmet so who knows exactly how long this has been going on. I also have noticed more than usual vibration especially in left foot peg. Sooo... I did a tear down and found this damage in primary on top and bottom of comp. Chain has 3/8" between shoe and bracket per Hayden spec. So definitely not loose, in fact I would say too tight but Hayden seems to think it's fine. Anyway, how the hell is the chain getting whipped around the comp like that?! Assuming it's the chain. I can only imagine chain slap/slack in the middle between clutch and comp. So wtf is going on?! Im hoping and praying it's not the worst case scenario and flywheel out of whack... have not done runout test yet but I may go there next if I can't figure this out. Sorry for long write up I'm just trying to help you help me. Thanks in advance guys

 

It would help to know the model and year. Also you are sure that those marks weren't there from before the last upgrades? You know one obvious question. You'll need to know the runout.

 

2008 fxd, and I am confident they were not there because I got a new inner and outer primary cover with powder coating. So you are suggesting to open cam cover and measure run out first?

 

No. Measure the runout on the primary side. What did you use to tighten the crank bolt? A jam bar or a step block.

 

Step block... and I will purchase tools required to measure run out on primary side. Thanks

 

would this tool get it done?

 

Well the step block is the likely reason for those marks. I'd use a jam bar. That indicator will work but you will need a steel plate to bolt to the case and I'd get a broader round or flat nose tip for the indicator.

Kinda like this one. It has a broad round tip in the box.

https://www.penntoolco.com/baker-bac...r-set-u52-pts/

Have you checked your motor mounts? Make sire they are in good shape and that nothing on the motor/ tranny/ primary is toughing the frame. Dynas do like to vibrate real bad at some RPM.

 

Bike has new kinetic structure motor mounts. Nothing obviously touching or loose. Now that u say that it makes perfect sense for the block to push the chain into case! That makes me feel a little better! Bike has top end rebuilt, cams, plate, pump, lifters, pushrods, etc. Swear it sounds like it coming from primary side. It's burning oil about a quart per 1,000 miles and rear cylinder looks rich based on plugs. Thought it would getter better as Engine broke in and rings sealed but still burns oil. Was dyno tuned at Bert's harley in Port Charlotte. I was told by somebody I was supposed to leave motor mounts loose and start Engine, let it set then shut off and tighten. I just straight swapped them... just trying to help anyone help me by giving as much info as possible. Thanks I will purchase tool u recommend and measure runout as soon as it comes in

 

A quart of oil burned in 1000 miles is unacceptable. Compression and leak down testing is in order. A crappy tune may have screwed up ring seal.

 

Worst spot measured is .004