The comp sprockets and clutch hubs were different for MM EFI and carbureted. EFI was 24/37 teeth and carb was 25/36.

Nut length has nothing to do with alignment at all - it's just that the nuts were too long and could bottom out before clamp load was achieved.

Primary sprocket shaft spacing is a result of all the tolerance stack-ups in all the machining of multiple components. That's why there is a most common one and then some outliers.

 

I have got some seriously horrible luck. I must have been a real piece of work in a past life. It is going to be yet a few more days. My box of parts from JP Cycles came today and was delivered opened with no spacers a rotor that the packaging looks like it was kicked around the parking lot for a few hours and a gasket kit that was bent and partially ripped a new gasket
So glad I spent the extra $40 for ups next day air

 

Ahhh Good Grief man ____________________________
Hope it gets better for ya

WP

 

trying not to waste any time so I fit everything back together minus a spacer to measure for alignment. man am I ever glad the manual says it only needs to be within 0.030... I must have taken a hundred measurements. I was having a hell of a time trying to get a measurement I trusted and still wasn't happy with any of them. when I finally gave up the overall average was 0.028. That is obviously less than 0.030 difference so by the book I would probably be safe without a spacer but I think I should use one of the 0.032 spacers which would make it that the comp side is only set out 0.004 further than clutch side. is this the right move? obviously 0.004 is closer than 0.028 by quite a bit but the 0.028 would eliminate the spacer which is one less part to fail again.

luckily jp cycles already shipped the spacers this morning before I could tell them to keep them. If I had managed to cancel them in time I would be **** out of luck all over again because the assortment I ordered from Dennis Kirk starts at 0.060. I put in an order late last night through Dennis Kirk for another gasket set another nut and the spacer assortment and selected regular ground shipping and it is supposed to be delivered tomorrow morning

 

Don't forget, even with the right spacer, you want to make sure that the nut does not bottom out on the crank.

 

0.032 spacers came yesterday and I was able to reassemble and take a few laps around the block. no grinding no drop in battery at idle with lights on. shaved nut about 0.03 cleaned with brakleen, hit with red permatex thread locker and torqued to 75 ftlb +40 deg. I took it out today for about 80 miles. I think my primary oil level might be just a touch off because my clutch is letting it start to grab if lever is released from grip even the tiniest bit when I used to be able to let it out a bit before it grabbed. I remember reading something about this being a sign of too much or too little primary oil in the manual. other than that all seems well.

thinking with the money I saved maybe I should buy a power Vision w/ auto tune pro or a detachable batwing with stereo

 

I just can’t win with this thing. Since putting everything back together and putting some miles on it I’ve been having clutch issues. Since I never messed with the clutch while in the primary I automatically assumed my primary oil level was off. First after a 50mi ride when I first got it back together I was pulling up onto my porch to park and when I grabbed the clutch nothing happened and I about rode into the side of the house. I assumed primary oil was low because I was afraid to overfill and put just short of the 26oz the manual calls for so I added another 2oz. Next ride bike didn’t want to shift easily at high rpm and was still pulling a bit at red lights while clutch was in and was hard to get into N added 2oz more since It was dry to start with from papertowling the oil and metal out and sitting open for a week I thought maybe it wanted closer to the 32oz capacity that is listed in the front of the manual. And yes my manual does have two different amounts listed. It lists 32 ounce in the front of the manual and 26 ounce later on. At around 30 oz it was shifting great, not noticeably pulling me while holding clutch but pretty much refuses to go into N while running. Rocking, revving,cursing, whatever nothing works lol. To add salt to the wound, I’ve checked and changed the primary level so many times the past week that I’ve got 2 of the 5 derby cover holes stripped. They are holding the bolt tight enough to not leak but won’t even torque to 7ftlb(84inlb)

clutch worked fine and no issue finding neutral before I worked on the compensator and rotor. I never messed with the clutch at any point while I was in the primary. The only other thing I can think of is that it hates the mobile1 vtwin oil I put in it. I have one of the Maxima oil change kits to do all three holes but I wanted to make sure I had everything figured out before I dumped all that in and ended up wasting it.

I don’t know if I should just go change the oil and adjust the clutch now or wait until I figure out what I’m going to do about the two stripped holes and do it all at once so I don’t risk stripping out any more of those holes. I think I might try using the Loctite form a thread kit that a few of my buddies swear by

 

First thing you should do is a proper clutch and cable adjustment. Primary fluid being a few ounces off won't result in your symptoms. Threads can be fixed.

 

Not enough oil is fine.. I'd make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. Chances are that maybe the center adjuster came loose or possibly the snap ring plate?

It's the joys of buying a used bike. I bought a 78 cb50 used a couple years ago. Bike ran but it took a good 3 months of working on it for 4-6 hours 3-4 times a week to get it reasonably right. There was almost 40 years of screwups that needed fixing. Good thing about what you got was there was only about 15 years.

 

I've been trying to adjust a clutch for about an hour and a half now and something definitely just went wrong. I've gone through the clutch adjustment procedure about four times and each time the clutch lever has been so hard to pull but it felt like I may have just been stretching the cable. The next time I tried I heard a pop in the bottom end somewhere and suddenly there was a lot more slack in the cable but after you pull the clutch lever back about halfway it is back to being super hard to pull. The clutch cable on this bike looks to be practically brand new but I am about out of adjustment.

if I haven't broken anything the only place I can think where I might have screwed up is when you hold the lever and turn the adjuster in until it pulls the lever out. I'm not sure if that means until it pulls the lever out when you're only holding on to it with a little bit of force like one finger or if when you actually have a hold of it and it starts pulling it out. At this point I'm kind of worried I might have broke something