TSB was clamp-load only. It did not address nut bottoming out. You would have to use a beam style torque wrench. Torque and turn is just way more accurate than a torque spec.
We had so many loose comp nuts in 03-05 I used to just tell everyone i knew who had or bought one to open it up and check for loose.
Item 12 here: Get one and put it under the nut. Min .030. I think a .060 would probably do it for sure. Been forever since I had mine apart and measured all the stackups. Maybe Max Headflow has an opinion - he might have a safe spec in his head.
wonder what the chances are of finding that local. if the ones I got coming don't fit I'll see if any of those are local or cut it
Originally Posted by Max Headflow
I think I'd cut 0.060 off the bottom of the nut. You can grind it, file it, whatever. I prefer 0.060 as a rule of thumb for any clearance you are not sure of.
if using an angle grinder how worried should I be that I'll screw up the threads? if I could be confident I could do this without screwing up the threads I'd rather skip the washer. I don't like the idea of an extra piece of metal to come apart in the motor again.
Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
This is excellent advice because in retrospect, the washer you found was most likely from under the sprocket shaft and not the nut. I have installed so many of those washers it's hard to remember that they're not OEM under the nut.
I guess I should just order one now because i don't recall pulling one with the rest of the compensator parts so that is more than likely the case. I'll have to double check but that'll really suck since I won't have one in time for my next night off. I was really hoping to get it put back together and confirm everything is working right before my shop appointment. I don't want to waste the appointment so if I get this all solved I'm going to just use the appointment for a state inspection and have him look it over. getting some ridding in would be nice too lol. not a very long riding season here in pa and with my 70hr work weeks time to ride is real hard to come by.
You need to realize that you’re going to need to check the alignment of your primary chain and that is going to dictate what spacer you’re going to buy for underneath the sprocket. If you’re not going to cut or grind down the nut you’re also going to buy a .060” or .090” spacer for under the nut. So you’re going to have to do some measurements and we really can’t just assume which size to order. If that bag of them you asked about in a previous post is a bag of assorted sprocket shaft washers that may be your easiest solution.
The reason cutting the nut down is better is that it creates one less joint that must retain clamp-load.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 05-01-2021 at 09:03 PM.
You need to realize that you’re going to need to check the alignment of your primary chain and that is going to dictate what spacer you’re going to buy for underneath the sprocket. If you’re not going to cut or grind down the nut you’re also going to buy a .060” or .090” spacer for under the nut. So you’re going to have to do some measurements and we really can’t just assume which size to order. If that bag of them you asked about in a previous post is a bag of assorted sprocket shaft washers that may be your easiest solution.
the ones I previously ordered are a 5pk of 0.032 I was told the exact thickness of the shim wasn't very important since it was just to keep the nut from bottoming out and that anything between 0.02 and 0.09 would be fine for that. and yes there is a lot I need to realize, I don't hide the fact that this is all new to me. I have zero experience inside an HD motor and am relying on the manual, youtube, and you gentleman here on the forums to learn. you were the first to catch the fact that the pieces I found might have been the spacer from behind the sprocket. I think the rest of us assumed what I found was from a shim behind the nut. since I wasn't aware I was missing another piece in the stack the thought that I would need to mess with measuring alignment never crossed my mind. my line of thought was replace Parts in order they came off and either shim or cut nut then check chain tension and close it up. if your right you probably just really saved my ***. I won't know if I'm missing a spacer or not till I get home tomorrow and look.
if I'm reading things right 0.02 is listed as the factory default size with the others being listed as "as needed" with the small price tag I'd gladly buy a couple of each that I could find locally. if I can't find them locally tomorrow I'm probably going to end up placing another order online for an assortment of sizes and paying for the fastest shipping I can get. I don't like throwing money away but time is very valuable to me especially riding time lol. I'd rather spend another $50 to finish the job on my next day off than waste that day off and have to wait for another to save a few dollars. time is the only reason I'm even still messing with it. couldn't get it into the Indy for over a month when my problems started. I'm still 2 weeks out from that appointment
the ones I previously ordered are a 5pk of 0.032 I was told the exact thickness of the shim wasn't very important since it was just to keep the nut from bottoming out and that anything between 0.02 and 0.09 would be fine for that. and yes there is a lot I need to realize, I don't hide the fact that this is all new to me. I have zero experience inside an HD motor and am relying on the manual, youtube, and you gentleman here on the forums to learn. you were the first to catch the fact that the pieces I found might have been the spacer from behind the sprocket. I think the rest of us assumed what I found was from a shim behind the nut. since I wasn't aware I was missing another piece in the stack the thought that I would need to mess with measuring alignment never crossed my mind. my line of thought was replace Parts in order they came off and either shim or cut nut then check chain tension and close it up. if your right you probably just really saved my ***. I won't know if I'm missing a spacer or not till I get home tomorrow and look.
if I'm reading things right 0.02 is listed as the factory default size with the others being listed as "as needed" with the small price tag I'd gladly buy a couple of each that I could find locally. if I can't find them locally tomorrow I'm probably going to end up placing another order online for an assortment of sizes and paying for the fastest shipping I can get. I don't like throwing money away but time is very valuable to me especially riding time lol. I'd rather spend another $50 to finish the job on my next day off than waste that day off and have to wait for another to save a few dollars. time is the only reason I'm even still messing with it. couldn't get it into the Indy for over a month when my problems started. I'm still 2 weeks out from that appointment
Was not a knock or being sarcastic. Was trying to have you take a moment and understand that there is some measuring and working through it. Everyone is trying to give you the best advice to help you through it. For the original spacer to be broken, it must also be very worn, but you know that any spacer you order will be as thick (realistically thicker) than it.
Was not a knock or being sarcastic. Was trying to have you take a moment and understand that there is some measuring and working through it. Everyone is trying to give you the best advice to help you through it. For the original spacer to be broken, it must also be very worn, but you know that any spacer you order will be as thick (realistically thicker) than it.
no worries I get it and I appreciate all the help I can get. I have a habit of over thinking and over analyzing things that usually saves me from making stupid mistakes but that doesn't seem to be happening with this bike. After going without for the past 2 years getting to ride again for those few hundred miles before this one **** the bed has me hooked more than ever and feeling like a second not riding is a second wasted that I'll never get back. it's got me very impatient and overlooking things.
Surprise surprise the mystery pieces I found were the spacer from behind the sprocket against the face of the rotor. I am surprised with the thickness measurement which averages 0.061 . That seems awful thick considering I have no idea how much of it wore away before it got to this point. So unless I can stack two of the 0.032 shim's I have on the way for a total of 0.064 and be extremely lucky it seems I'm going to be ordering parts again. I'll have to dig into the manual and see if it explains how I'm supposed to measure for the alignment I didn't find much on Google
edit yes manual describes how to measure but I'm having trouble visualizing it. I'll have to try it after getting some sleep. The part numbers in the manual for the spacers jump from 0.060 straight to 0.090 then 0.120.
Last edited by The Outlaw; 05-02-2021 at 09:44 AM.
TSB was clamp-load only. It did not address nut bottoming out. You would have to use a beam style torque wrench. Torque and turn is just way more accurate than a torque spec. We had so many loose comp nuts in 03-05 I used to just tell everyone i knew who had or bought one to open it up and check for loose.
Understood; just making the point that the nut bottoming out has to be addressed regardless of what torque procedure is used. Sill curious what torque load is at 75ft.lb. plus 40*.
I am thinking the OP might get lucky. With the shim being between the nut and the rotor, we must assume someone has been in the primary to address a loose comp nut and the sprocket may be aligned. Of course the OP should check but it the sprocket is aligned, a .090" cut on the nut and new rotor could be all he OP needs to get back on the road.
Understood; just making the point that the nut bottoming out has to be addressed regardless of what torque procedure is used. Sill curious what torque load is at 75ft.lb. plus 40*.
I am thinking the OP might get lucky. With the shim being between the nut and the rotor, we must assume someone has been in the primary to address a loose comp nut and the sprocket may be aligned. Of course the OP should check but it the sprocket is aligned, a .090" cut on the nut and new rotor could be all he OP needs to get back on the road.
I am thinking the spacer probably was under the sprocket shaft not the nut. There was no mention of 2 spacers. It probably never had clamp load addressed and I believe this was all also part of his charging system issues.
I am thinking the spacer probably was under the sprocket shaft not the nut. There was no mention of 2 spacers. It probably never had clamp load addressed and I believe this was all also part of his charging system issues.
everything points to that being the case. Those two pieces of metal that I pulled out of the primary match up to the ring worn into the rotor pretty well.
another thing I'm having trouble wrapping my head around is which parts are going to change the measurement of the shim needed for alignment? I would think the new rotor would definitely change the measurement but would a new nut or cutting the nut? I'm thinking not but I could be wrong. While searching for these parts I also came across a 24 tooth sprocket but I have thought about switching to later but I'm guessing that would require me to re-measure and switch Sims again.
05-01-2021 | 07:32 PM
