Item 12 here: Get one and put it under the nut. Min .030. I think a .060 would probably do it for sure. Been forever since I had mine apart and measured all the stackups. Maybe Max Headflow has an opinion - he might have a safe spec in his head.
I think I'd cut 0.060 off the bottom of the nut. You can grind it, file it, whatever. I prefer 0.060 as a rule of thumb for any clearance you are not sure of.
BTW I blew the center out of a rotor and also replaced the stator. Part of the reason was that the stator was old enough that oil leaked down the wire and flooded the connector to the regulator.
OP - if you cant shorten the nut just buy a .060" #12 from the diagram I sent and put it under the nut.
Max - had some blow out lke that on big motors with guys doing hole shots. Clamp load was obviously good, acceleration rate was too much for the rotor shell.
When you start putting this primary back together, check primary chain alignment.
This is excellent advice because in retrospect, the washer you found was most likely from under the sprocket shaft and not the nut. I have installed so many of those washers it's hard to remember that they're not OEM under the nut.
You'll wind up having to space the sprocket shaft AND put a spacer under the nut or cut it down. There is an updated torque specification for the earlier compensator that was a TSB and I forget if it got into manuals. It involved a torque then turn vs the original torque only.
Here is a link I quickly found. Probably has some info, but you should look for the actual bulletin.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 05-01-2021 at 10:25 AM.
Back in the day, there were three sizes of shims for the comp nut; .030", .060" and .090: but, IIRC, those PNs have been obsolete for a while now, so shaving the nut is the best option for the OP. The fit is not precision so the OP could clamp the nut up on a vise and hit it with an angle grinder; just need to create a gap as shown in the previously posted diagram.
The '05 Softatil SM says 150-165ft.lb. for the comp nut but there may be a TSB that changes that as Ed points out. Having said that, I have cut the nut down on my '05FXSTD by .030" to keep the nut from coming loose and have torqued to 160 several times with no issues.
Back in the day, there were three sizes of shims for the comp nut; .030", .060" and .090: but, IIRC, those PNs have been obsolete for a while now, so shaving the nut is the best option for the OP. The fit is not precision so the OP could clamp the nut up on a vise and hit it with an angle grinder; just need to create a gap as shown in the previously posted diagram.
The '05 Softatil SM says 150-165ft.lb. for the comp nut but there may be a TSB that changes that as Ed points out. Having said that, I have cut the nut down on my '05FXSTD by .030" to keep the nut from coming loose and have torqued to 160 several times with no issues.
Seems to me that if the issue with the '03-'05 comp nuts were coming loose at the SM spec of 150-165ft..lb, the new TSB procedure should land on a bit more than 165ft.lb? Do you know what the torque load is following the TSB procedure? Maybe Max does? Getting another 40* after hitting 75ft.lb may not sound like much but maybe 175-180ft.lb.?
What the TSB does not address is adding a .030" shim between the comp nut and hub or shortening the comp nut? Don't see how the TSB procedure solves the stack up issue if the comp nut is bottoming out though. For sure, the OP should shave at least .030", more if he chooses off the comp nut; then follow the TSB procedure.
I have always followed the SM torque procedure and stopped at 160ft.lb after carb cleaning all the threads, using the same shaved comp nut and applying a small amount of red Loctite; has worked for me. (knock on wood). If I ever have to go back into the primary (hope not) I will follow the TSB procedure and see where my torque wrench clicks. curious now.
04-30-2021, 07:54 PM
