Twin Cam Motors Twin Cam 1998 thru 2017

primary noise same deluxe more problems...

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  #21  
Old 04-27-2021, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by WP50
I'll chime in only because I was in my 08 UC a few weeks ago.
Get it apart as mentioned.
The older compensators just gave it up to soon in a lot of cases. Not all but to many anyhow.
There are several threads here on forum about them.

I think the bottom line is if the splines that the rotor mounts on to are good___ fairly easy repair. I didn't say cheap tho.
Those splines just happen to be the left side of your crankshaft.

Good luck WP

This is an older thread I used because it was closer the year of my bike yours being an 05 I'm not sure what might be different.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...mpensator.html
05 and 08 comps are apples and oranges. 05 and earlier are good compensators.

On post 03 bikes, a loose compensator nut run long enough can damage the bottom end because as it looses clamp load the side to side of the crank goes up.

OP just needs to take it apart and assess the damage. Going to need a rotor I bet. If he's been fighting charging issues, it's been running loose and spinning on the crank.
 
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  #22  
Old 04-27-2021, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
05 and 08 comps are apples and oranges. 05 and earlier are good compensators.

On post 03 bikes, a loose compensator nut run long enough can damage the bottom end because as it looses clamp load the side to side of the crank goes up.

OP just needs to take it apart and assess the damage. Going to need a rotor I bet. If he's been fighting charging issues, it's been running loose and spinning on the crank.
Spinning on crank Hope he gets lucky
Thank You Sir

WP
 
  #23  
Old 04-27-2021, 04:38 PM
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It will probably be a few days before I get to dig in any deeper my work schedule is kind of crazy I work 3, 14 hour nights then have a night off before doing it over again.

I was worried the two problems may be related. It would make sense.

I was aware of the workaround for the 03 to 05 compensator nuts. After finding those pieces of the shim in my primary though I think I would rather cut the next one. I wonder how I can pull that off without messing up the threads.
 
  #24  
Old 04-27-2021, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by WP50
I'll chime in only because I was in my 08 UC a few weeks ago.
Get it apart as mentioned.
The older compensators just gave it up to soon in a lot of cases. Not all but to many anyhow.
There are several threads here on forum about them.

I think the bottom line is if the splines that the rotor mounts on to are good___ fairly easy repair. I didn't say cheap tho.
Those splines just happen to be the left side of your crankshaft.

Good luck WP

This is an older thread I used because it was closer the year of my bike yours being an 05 I'm not sure what might be different.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...mpensator.html

The 06 Dyna and 07-up to about 12 comps had issues. Your link is for an 06. 06s also had weak rotors. Nothing wrong with the 06 bit twin model comps that weren't Dyna or the 05 and earlier big twins. The main issue was due to HD changing from timken to straight roller in 2003 and screwing up the comp/alt/bearing stack up so that the nut could bottom out on the crank where shown in djl's picture. There are 2 solutions, add a spacer under the nut or trim the nut. Early comps are actually not too bad. I've worn them out but it was almost 60K on a motor that spent most of it's time as a 116. You can blow out the centers of early alternator rotors tho.

 
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  #25  
Old 04-28-2021, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
The 06 Dyna and 07-up to about 12 comps had issues. Your link is for an 06. 06s also had weak rotors. Nothing wrong with the 06 bit twin model comps that weren't Dyna or the 05 and earlier big twins. The main issue was due to HD changing from timken to straight roller in 2003 and screwing up the comp/alt/bearing stack up so that the nut could bottom out on the crank where shown in djl's picture. There are 2 solutions, add a spacer under the nut or trim the nut. Early comps are actually not too bad. I've worn them out but it was almost 60K on a motor that spent most of it's time as a 116. You can blow out the centers of early alternator rotors tho.
Thank you Sir

WP
 
  #26  
Old 04-30-2021, 11:08 AM
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Well it looks like I may have gotten lucky or at least considering my normal luck. Mind you this is further than I've ever dug into a Harley motor but to me it kind of looks like the rotor is the only thing damaged so it seems I need to find a new one and figure out how to get all those little metal shavings out of there

 
  #27  
Old 04-30-2021, 01:32 PM
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Check the stator for being grounded to the case and any damaged enamel on the windings or signs the magnets have been hitting it. If I were in that deep I would seriously consider just getting a stator (if ANY damage concerns) and rotor from Cycle Electric. If doing a stator get new stator bolts from H-D - just because proper loctite is on them already and it's easier for a one time DIY replacement, I'd replace the crank case seal, check the spacer for a wear mark and flip if necessary. If it has any signs of crushing or yielding, replace it. It will need a new washer for under the comp nut. Also it's time to look at the primary bearing and race.

Be sure to use the proper tools for reassembly (barbie surfboard) or you will create a primary bearing failure down the road.
 
  #28  
Old 04-30-2021, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
Check the stator for being grounded to the case and any damaged enamel on the windings or signs the magnets have been hitting it. If I were in that deep I would seriously consider just getting a stator (if ANY damage concerns) and rotor from Cycle Electric. If doing a stator get new stator bolts from H-D - just because proper loctite is on them already and it's easier for a one time DIY replacement, I'd replace the crank case seal, check the spacer for a wear mark and flip if necessary. If it has any signs of crushing or yielding, replace it. It will need a new washer for under the comp nut. Also it's time to look at the primary bearing and race.

Be sure to use the proper tools for reassembly (barbie surfboard) or you will create a primary bearing failure down the road.
as far as I can see stator is fine with no visible wear. I ordered a drag specialties rotor and a primary gasket till I could decide on a whole gasket set. primary will be coming back open for new oil and gaskets within a couple hundred miles just to try to get as much metal as possible out of there. I'm open to suggestions on what to look for in gaskets.

I have been wondering what to do about a new shim though.. I've obviously read that most people either shim or cut the nut on the 03 to 05 but I haven't seen anyone list anything specific as to what they are using exactly as a shim. Not sure if there is a specific part people are using or if they are just using any random washer that will fit.

I will admit I'm completely clueless when it comes to the inner primary bearing and will have to research that. I do know that it was talked about quite a bit with my 2007 Wide Glide I have something to watch out for but at this point I would have to check my manual to see where to even look for one on the Softail LOL
 
  #29  
Old 04-30-2021, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by The Outlaw
as far as I can see stator is fine with no visible wear. I ordered a drag specialties rotor and a primary gasket till I could decide on a whole gasket set. primary will be coming back open for new oil and gaskets within a couple hundred miles just to try to get as much metal as possible out of there. I'm open to suggestions on what to look for in gaskets.

I have been wondering what to do about a new shim though.. I've obviously read that most people either shim or cut the nut on the 03 to 05 but I haven't seen anyone list anything specific as to what they are using exactly as a shim. Not sure if there is a specific part people are using or if they are just using any random washer that will fit.

I will admit I'm completely clueless when it comes to the inner primary bearing and will have to research that. I do know that it was talked about quite a bit with my 2007 Wide Glide I have something to watch out for but at this point I would have to check my manual to see where to even look for one on the Softail LOL
It makes no sense to put it together and take it apart in a hundred miles - just clean it out now. Take out the stator, clean it all out - be 100% sure the insulation on the wires is not damaged and it passes all stator continuity and resistance tests. The washer when used is actually a sprocket shaft spacer placed under the nut. Turning the nut on a lathe is a solution I did not suggest because I didn't think you had one.

My error on the bearing comment - for some reason I thought it was 06 and later momentarily - this will use the barbie stairs and primary bearing damage due to improper tool is not a concern.
 
  #30  
Old 04-30-2021, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
It makes no sense to put it together and take it apart in a hundred miles - just clean it out now. Take out the stator, clean it all out - be 100% sure the insulation on the wires is not damaged and it passes all stator continuity and resistance tests. The washer when used is actually a sprocket shaft spacer placed under the nut. Turning the nut on a lathe is a solution I did not suggest because I didn't think you had one.

My error on the bearing comment - for some reason I thought it was 06 and later momentarily - this will use the barbie stairs and primary bearing damage due to improper tool is not a concern.
I don't have access to a lathe. stator and volt reg tested fine while I was trying to troubleshoot the charging issue in previous thread just a couple of weeks ago..

I'll have to hurry up and see if I can find that shim and see if I can get them to modify my order so I don't have to pay for expedited shipping twice. I don't want to wait any longer than I have to to start putting it back together
 


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