Twin Cam Motors Twin Cam 1998 thru 2017

primary noise same deluxe more problems...

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  #11  
Old 04-27-2021, 01:53 PM
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quick video

 
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Old 04-27-2021, 01:56 PM
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The comp cover is dimpled on the edges by design - holds the guts in. I am thinking you had a loose comp nut. The broken washer (no scale shown) could be the large washer that was used in some instances under the head of the comp nut to ensure clamp load. You need to disassemble it and all will become clear.
 

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 04-27-2021 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 04-27-2021, 01:57 PM
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That compensator cover shouldn't look like this shut it? It looks almost deformed or welded on the front face and then dented in multiple places around the rim
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 02:07 PM
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Comp nut is loose.. The outer cover that holds the springs should not turn but be clamped to the end of the crank It wouldn't surprise me if the washer was one to help seat the comp. May not be a whole lot of damage.
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 02:10 PM
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It's supposed to be dented in 4 places to hold the Bellville springs in place. It does look like someone beat on it a little..
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Comp nut is loose.. The outer cover that holds the springs should not turn but be clamped to the end of the crank It wouldn't surprise me if the washer was one to help seat the comp. May not be a whole lot of damage.
so you think the two chunks of metal I found were part of a washer that was being used as a shim between the compensator nut and cover? Do you think that cover should be replaced? I don't know if you can tell from the video or the picture but it has a weird mark on it almost like it has seen a stick welder even though that makes no sense
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by The Outlaw
so you think the two chunks of metal I found were part of a washer that was being used as a shim between the compensator nut and cover? Do you think that cover should be replaced? I don't know if you can tell from the video or the picture but it has a weird mark on it almost like it has seen a stick welder even though that makes no sense
Need to take it a part. You will also need to check the splines on the alternator rotor and crankshaft.

Add:

The weld is normal. It's a sheetmetal piece welded to a machined piece.
 
  #18  
Old 04-27-2021, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
The comp nut could be loose or the tensioner shoe cracked and fell off. I'm not a fan of the L shaped tensioner but did manage to put 80000 miles on one.
There's a tsb on 2005s re the comp nut. It needs to be shimmed 30 thou or it'll come loose.
 

Last edited by Campy Roadie; 04-27-2021 at 06:23 PM.
  #19  
Old 04-27-2021, 03:17 PM
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Two of the most knowledgeable forum members are giving the OP the right information; all he need do is listen and follow. The early compensators are actually fairly robust pieces of hardware. The washer Ed is referring to is shown in the attached diagram as a shimand is a very common remedy used to achieve the required clamping pressure.
 
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  #20  
Old 04-27-2021, 03:20 PM
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I'll chime in only because I was in my 08 UC a few weeks ago.
Get it apart as mentioned.
The older compensators just gave it up to soon in a lot of cases. Not all but to many anyhow.
There are several threads here on forum about them.

I think the bottom line is if the splines that the rotor mounts on to are good___ fairly easy repair. I didn't say cheap tho.
Those splines just happen to be the left side of your crankshaft.

Good luck WP

This is an older thread I used because it was closer the year of my bike yours being an 05 I'm not sure what might be different.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...mpensator.html
 

Last edited by WP50; 04-27-2021 at 03:28 PM.


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