Twin Cam Motors Twin Cam 1998 thru 2017

07 Ultra. 11 miles per oz of oil. Read on

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Old 04-05-2021, 08:55 PM
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Default 07 Ultra. 11 miles per oz of oil. Read on

2007 Ultra bought new. Used some oil but ran hot as hell.
First 45,000. IED,s PC II,oil cooler, Dino / synthetic/royal purple/ amsoil / syn 3 etc etc.and lots of other recommendations from hours of f forum searching. Seemed to have to clean my intake air valve a lot.
Finally could no longer use 6th gear for pinging. Pistons had so much carbon build up valves were hitting and bending.
Bought another Evo and put twinkie back in shop.
Total rebuild, Dark Horse engineering Balanced and blueprinted bottom end, 103 build with new cylinders, heads, complete Fueling plus + cam chest lifters and S&S easy start 551. (Love those ). Bassani aRoad Rage Dyna tune. $6500
Ran like a scalded dog but loved oil. Maybe a quart per 1000 . Changed umbrella valves to new style ? and then again to some fancy CNC type somebody recommended.
50,000 more miles later the pistons again are carboned up. Runnig hot again. Removed heads and carefully cleaned carbon.
Created a vent system to route the head vents to a Y and to the ground. Never see any oil residue in it. Installed new Dyna Vision because PC is crap.

i have been tracking this over 4000 miles meticulously to the ounce, measuring in consistent temperatures and methods. It does not seem to mater the outside temperature or riding style. No overfilling , in fact someone had suggested running it low which I tried.

I am running Amsoil 20-50 now but have some 25-60 dino i am thinking about trying. Thoughts ?

Read somewhere about a difference in oil pan gasket size but that seems crazy.

RevtTech or Ultima. ?
 
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:25 AM
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The thing I see missing in all of the above is compression and leak down testing. First thing to check with high oil consumption.
 
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:51 PM
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I have an 07 Dyna aka The Heat Monster. Put IED's, Ness Big Sucker & V&H slip-on's on it after 500 miles and it really helped. IED's are an economical way to go vs a Tuner, so ya got what ya paid for. Piston and valve carbon deposits are caused by the Emission Breather heads, it sucks oil right into the intake air stream. Ya need to go too an external breather system. As djl posted, compression/leak down test. After dropping big bucks on the engine, sell the IED's on ebay and get a real tuner.

Got over 103.000 on the Dyna and only loose 1/4 cup of oil between oil changes.
 
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:23 AM
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Burning 1 quart every 400 miles? You can try the seafoam/water in the intake to try and free up the rings, but you'll probably have to pull the motor down to fix it.
 
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Old 04-10-2021, 08:40 AM
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Blows my mind how many keep that assinine EPA mandated internal crankcase breathing. Worse thing there is for your motor is to breath hot, oily air into the combustion chamber when common sense says cool, dry air is what it needs. Ever hear of hot air intakes? No. They're cold air intakes. Duh.
Once your combustion chamber/pistons are carboned up beyond belief you've got problems that will only get worse. Especially when that carbon starts glowing red and causing pre-ignition.
The EPA should have to pay for all the damage it's caused with this bs.
I've always said the umbrella valves in the heads was a bad idea too. All it did was made it easy/aesthetically pleasing to vent into the combustion chamber. But the heat in this location is problematic for the umbrella valves themselves and they cease to function/close properly and suck air back in on upstroke causing increased crankcase pressure.
I plugged the head breathers in my 05 Sporty build by using solid bolts and went to an inline crankcase breather(Krankvent Plus) from Hayden that vented out of the cam chest where it belongs and worked way better. Even changed how it idled and sounded better. Haven't done this to my TC103 yet.
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; 04-10-2021 at 08:47 AM.
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