Twin Cam Motors Twin Cam 1998 thru 2017

INstalling Hybrid Cam Plate on 03 RKC

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  #11  
Old 03-28-2021 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
Outer bearings as well and I would clean that inner chain reeeaaaal good. Check that the pressure relief valv/piston is moving freely in the bore; always a good idea with a new cam plate. I think you will like the 509; IMHO best bolt in for a TC88.
Thanks, I have a friend with a shop. I'm going to take the chain and the oil pan over to his shop and use the parts cleaner to scrub everything up. I will make sure I check that pressure relief piston/spring on the new cam plate to make sure everything moves freely.

I'm pulling the inner bearings out tonight. The new cam plate kit comes with new inner bearings (and outer bearings), but I'm going to wait until the S&S cam kit arrives because I suspect the inner bearings in that kit will be better than the ones in the HD kit. Maybe not, but it's worth waiting a few days to find out.

EDIT: I may even just go buy a new inner chain instead of reusing the old one. I'm trying very hard though not to give my budget officer "oh and another thing" purchasing fatigue. After this, I have to get new tires, front and back.
 

Last edited by crazytown; 03-28-2021 at 04:55 PM.
  #12  
Old 03-29-2021 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chief08
are those the cyco shoes with 14000 miles on them and there that destroyed. that's the first feed back I have read on cyco shoes that every one raves about there no better then oem shoes. actually worse them oem shoes. I would not use cyco shoes again.
They are, but I would be very hesitant to just say that the cyco shoes are bad. Could be the way I installed them. Could be other stuff happened in there that helped chew them up (chain guide). Could be any damn thing. If I could guarantee that everything eas installed perfectly and such, which I can't, then I would look at the shoes/pads. As it is, I'm betting on what djl posted, and I'm betting I didn't peen the rivet sufficiently on the outside tensioner.
 
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2021 | 04:58 PM
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I'm posting more here mostly for my own edification. While waiting for the new cams set to be delivered (Wednesday), I pulled the inner bearings out. Not too bad looking, but a little scorching on the outside of the rear bearing.

EDIT: These have approx 47k miles on them. I installed them at approx 46.6k miles.

 

Last edited by crazytown; 03-30-2021 at 05:05 PM.
  #14  
Old 03-30-2021 | 06:58 PM
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Look harder.
 
  #15  
Old 03-31-2021 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Look harder.
I'm not seeing it. Do you see something with the rollers?
 
  #16  
Old 03-31-2021 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by crazytown
I'm not seeing it. Do you see something with the rollers?
You see how the rear cam inner journal is pitted? Those marks likely correspond to marks in the needles. Might be small but still there.
 

Last edited by Max Headflow; 03-31-2021 at 09:50 PM. Reason: inner journal
  #17  
Old 04-01-2021 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
You see how the rear cam inner journal is pitted? Those marks likely correspond to marks in the needles. Might be small but still there.
Okay, gotcha. As I have been cleaning things up, I've seen less crap than I expected. Especially in the oil pan. I *think* that tells me that this has been a problem for longer than I thought.
 
  #18  
Old 04-12-2021 | 02:28 PM
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So I have had things buttoned up for a little over a week now. On first startup, the engine was noticeably quieter, especially the top end. I am REALLY liking the S&S 509 cams. There is a noticeable difference in the lower gears, and even 5th gear pulls at highway speeds are better. There is a different kind of lope at idle as well, which is not a bad thing.

The only damn issue I am having now is an oil leak. I cleaned off the bottom of the bike, dusted the bottom with some baby powder, and tracked it down to the drain plug. I pulled the plug out over the weekend, and the o-ring was a little chewed up. I always use a new o-ring, so it wasn't and old one. I put a new o-ring on, filled up with oil (again), and I'm still getting a leak in the same area.

I'm going to try re-torqueing the oil pan bolts, but I'm also thinking that the oil pan might have a crack??? I didn't see anything when I was cleaning it, but who knows.

If it was just a few drips here or there, I might not even care, but over the course of the day, it's about a good fist sized puddle under the bike. GD.
 
  #19  
Old 04-12-2021 | 02:44 PM
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Doubt that the pan is cracked. The spring loaded baffle in the early pans can make it difficult to keep the gasket in place when re-installing the pan; R/R of the early pans is a PITA. I am thinking the pan bolts are not tight or, worst case, the gasket was FUBARD during the reinstall. I converted the exhaust on my '02 FLHT to the '09 up cross under system and replaced the early pan with the '09 up pan that does not have spring loaded baffles and is a piece of cake to R/R.
 
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  #20  
Old 04-12-2021 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
Doubt that the pan is cracked. The spring loaded baffle in the early pans can make it difficult to keep the gasket in place when re-installing the pan; R/R of the early pans is a PITA. I am thinking the pan bolts are not tight or, worst case, the gasket was FUBARD during the reinstall. I converted the exhaust on my '02 FLHT to the '09 up cross under system and replaced the early pan with the '09 up pan that does not have spring loaded baffles and is a piece of cake to R/R.
Thank you sir. That makes sense. Good to know that the '09 pan will fit, and no ******* springs to deal with, that's a big plus. I'm going to have to change out my rear tire here in a month or so. Maybe it's time to take to just take it all off again and use the newer pan.

Just for my own reference, did the "A" revision on the oil pan (62489-99A) remove the springs, or would you know? Just curious more than anything. On the parts finder, it shows the same part number for both my '03 FLHRCI and the '09 FLHRC, but the diagrams are different.
 



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