You just need to search on line and decide how much you want to pay. They will run anywhere from $35 to over $100 but the less expensive variety is fine for DIY guys like us.
Check Harbor Freight, IIRC, they have a couple of different sets.

 

hi, I'm doing the baisley spring install soon - did you need any special tool for this install? I know Fueling sell one specific for that job, but what did you use?

Thanks

 

No, not at all. Main thing to do when you have the plunger out is clean the passage really good and buff up the plunger. (Got that info from a different post on here - thanks @djl)

 

I work close to a Harbor Freight, so I picked up a leakdown tester. Here are my compression and leakdown tests:

Front Cyl:
180psi comp
Leakdown - 100 psi input - 96 psi on secondary gauge

Rear Cyl:
165 psi comp
Leakdown - 100 psi input - 95 psi on secondary gauge

 

Leak down is good and the 15psi difference in compression is within the generally accepted variance of 10% but I would be keeping an eye on it. It would have made more sense if the rear cylinder had the better compression based on what the plugs look like. At this point, I would be concentrating on the carb tuning and put compression on the back burner.

 

Great thanks 👍

 

Quick update on the carb tuning. I haven't messed much with the DTT module yet since changing from "Initial - 5, Adv - 7" to "Initial - 2 Adv - 2". This did get rid of ping (now that I definitely know what I'm listening for).
I have the software now, so that will be the next thing to work on.

First I wanted to address the oil breather system and put in a catch can. I got that installed, and noticed I had to clean and re-oil the K&N filter, as it looked dirty in one section. What I thought had been just oil mist, was fuel and oil mixed. Now that the oil breaths into the catch can, there is fuel soaking the filter that is still occurring. It's washing the red oil off the air filter in one spot. First, I made sure the accelerator pump was aimed correctly and squirts into the carb opening. I removed the carb and checked the float using the bench test measurements. It was off about 1/16-3/32" too high (as in filling too high). I corrected this, and readjusted the A/F mixture at idle. Went for a 250 mile ride today, and I still have a slight seeping out the bottom of the air box. (I'll probably use the "maxi-pad" trick to keep that in check)

So, I read Doc's post on the fuel mist blow back that can naturally occur. My bike will spray fuel with the air filter removed, when revving up and in a certain RPM range, just as the post describes. From what I read, this is normal, but how much is too much? When changing to the 21 cams, did I introduce some intake/exhaust unbalancing that's causing this? (Or is this not worth worrying about. It sounds common)

 

Update:

I’ve been messing with the DTT software and ignition timing and think I have it pretty good (maybe not optimal, but that's what a dyno would be for, should I want to get it dialed in further).

One thing that has never went away, and it seems to be here just since I put in the Andrews 21 cams. I get a lot of fuel soaking up my K&N air cleaner, and it sprays out enough to cover the right saddlebag, right side of my seat and passenger seat, and some even up on the tour pack. This is after a longer ride, usually at higher speeds around 60-70 mph (my daily drive to work is 35 miles on a state HWY, if I wipe up the bike before I leave work, it will be spattered on when I get home).

I’ve put in a new float needle, and even adjusted the float level about 1mm lower than the manual states (thinking maybe fuel level was still too high). I’m running the main jet at the stock 190, slow jet is an aftermarket 46 (stock was 45). I’ve got 2 washers under the carb needle. The needle is the stock CV needle for my carb (I wasn’t able to get a hold of a sportster needle). I've got the AF screw out 3 turns. Mileage still seems to be around 31-33 highway (I'm the guy always needing to fill up when I'm on a ride).

I don’t have the stock air box since the last post. I've since installed a DK Custom backplate and round K&N (then I can still utilize the stock football cover). I thought maybe the stock box was choking a bit, even with a K&N filter. This did not improve the excess fuel, though.

Has anyone ever experienced this before? (I debated whether to put this in a new post)

 

Det,
I don't have an answer to the excess fuel but a Stage I TC88 with a set of Andrews 21 cams should be getting at least 40mpg, or better. So the 31-33mpg, if accurate tells me you are running way rich. If you have fwo washers under the needle, i.e. raising the needle, take them out. I am thinking that excess fuel may be coming up via the emulsion tube with the needle raised. I assume you are running the stock needle? You will probably have to reset the A/F adjustment; not sure. I also think you can drop the main to 185 but would run a couple of WOT plug cuts with new plugs first.

 

I'll take those washers out and do some plug cuts. I have 3 sets here unopened for that.

Below are a couple pics I took, where the fuel is washing out the filter element oil: