Have you adjusted the A/F idle screw? How many turns out? This needs to be done to test the pilot jet. Not suggesting that this is causing the stutter but an important step and IMHO, the first step in tuning a CV carb.

Have you checked the float level? It may need adjusting.

Do you have the cables so you can upload/download the ignition map from the DTT? If not, suggest that you get them although I don't think timing is the issue with high rpm stutter but looking at the ignition map and being able to manually make adjustments is a benefit. While timing is important for obvious reasons, don't expect timing to make a big difference in performance. Some adjust the ignition curve by starting at 2 on the initial and advancing a click until they get a ping and back off a click, then do the same with advance slope.

I ran a CV44 on my all bore 107 which I ran pretty hard, always 75-80mph wherever I could. Mileage wasn't great but averaged between 36-38mpg depending on the terrain and wind; your mileage should be at least that and I would expect a bit better, so you have some work to do.

I sold that bike last year along with the DTT software/hardware but I do have some ignition files on my computer that I can send but you will need the program to open the files and/or download them to your DTT. PM me if interested.

 

I have adjusted the screw each time I've made jet changes. It's currently out 3 turns with a 45 slow jet, and 190 main.

I did check the level a while back. It wouldn't hurt for me to check it again. I do know that when I have had the fuel line removed, and I would take the bowl off to change the jet, the bowl is about 1/8-1/4" from full, with fuel.

I just ordered the USB hardware kit. I didn't figured I needed it at the time I got the DTT, but it sounds like many people on the forum (and other forums) use the software to custom tune. I'm not a total stranger to the PC tuning, as this bike previously had an S&S "Service ECM" for the MM EFI. (Not that I knew what I was doing, but I did make some slight adjustments).

Thanks for the help, as you said, I've got some work to do! (I'll PM ya for that ignition file if you still have it. Thanks)

 

I thought 3 turns out on the slow jet normally means you need to go to the next size jet, a 46.. 2-2.5 is normal.. might even need a 48...

 

The reason I asked. Hard to tell without listening to the motor while adjusting. I would keep turning out while listening before making the call on the slow jet. I like 2-2.5 as well.

 

I had a 48 in there, but the "adjustment while listening" method got me about 1.5 turns. I thought that may be too rich, so when I changed from the 195 back to the 190 on the main, I also put the 45 back in. Maybe I'll get the 46 and try that.

 

There is no 46 except aftermarket and those can really vary in actual size. 45 or 48

 

So I took a look at my plugs. These were put in just after the cam change, oil change, start of the season. I've never had them look like this after an entire season or 2. It may be from when I had the 195/48 combo and it was running rich(??)

I also had oil really breathing out today again. It has a light spray on the hard bag and tour pack. First of all, I need to see if I screwed something up with the oil pump reinstallation (I followed the tightening of the bolts, after pump was put in, then the cam plate). I did not have this much excess before the cam change. I had a little, but the drilling out the top drain holes in the rocker box fixed it. (I still plan on getting the catch can kit, but still not sure it should be doing it this much)

Also, since the K&N filter is getting oil-soaked, that's probably choking off the air.



Left plug is front, right is rear



Left plug is front, right is rear

 

updating the cam bearings might be a good idea, at this time

 

When was the last time you checked compression and leak down? Front plug is reading rich and, if wet, oil is getting into the cylinder. I could live with the rear, Having said that, to accurately read plugs, plug cuts should be taken with new plugs at different throttle positions to check AFR at that throttle position.

 

Good question, I have not done a leak down before, but did just pick up a compression tester a couple weeks back. What do you recommend for leak-down testers? I see tons of them out there.

Also, it looks like I've got a lot more homework to do with this troubleshooting. Trying to absorb all I can from other forum posts and resources. I appreciate all the replies!