The point I failed to make was that, so far anyway, you haven't indicated how you plan to "know exactly" what you are dealing with but good luck with the process.

 

I'm not trying to sound confrontational I appreciate all the help I can get but I did post my plans in this thread

plan was
1 check the dealership and the area the bike was from and see if they have any records. Failed I found the shop spoke to them they have regular service records but nothing involving motor work

2 let the local Indie shop dig into it take some measurements and figure out what he can. I'm in the process of this I'm trying to decide how to proceed there. He quoted me $350 to tear it down take the measurements and and get me as much info on what was done to the motor as possible and then at that point we could either discuss upgrades and cost or he could just put it all back together again and give me the information for about $1,000

3 dig in and do some investigating of my own. This is my least favorite option just because I work 70 hours a week and would rather do other things in my Limited bit of spare time I get but with a good manual I don't think tearing the top end down and opening the cam plate up would be too much of an issue but I have never worked on my other Harleys. But I have done plenty of work on dirt bikes and ATVs over the years with the help of climber and Haynes manuals before I started working crazy hours.

 

Besides compression testing and putting a dowel down the spark plug hole are there any other simple tasks to do at home without any special tools or manual? I'm going to order the Harley manual from eBay but I am off tomorrow and probably won't have the manual for a few days after. I was toying with the idea of buying a cheap borescope earlier, but I doubt that would even give us a good enough picture to learn anything. What are the chances that the compression test and stroke measurement alone will give us a good enough idea of what is going on to avoid pulling the top end?

if I have the extra motivation I might look into opening up the cam cover and trying to see if I can figure out what cams are in it. I'm pretty sure that when I was looking into replacing the cam on my Dyna I didn't need any special tools to get to it to view it but I did need tools if I wanted to actually change it.

also would there be any markings on the pulleys so that I could try to find out if they were changed?.

I hate that I'm seriously considering ripping apart this perfectly working bike just because I can't get over the Curiosity.

 

We got 185 PSI on front cylinder and 181 PSI on rear cylinder and from multiple times trying to measure stroke through spark plug hole seems about dead on 4 and 1/4 inches. What does that tell us?

 

Twin cam choices are- 4" stroke, (88/95") 4 3/8" stroke (96/103/110) or 4 5/8" stroke (120/124). Sounds like 4 3/8, so a 103 @ 10.5 with SEP heads and probably SE258 or SE 260 cams.

 

Thanks note for my next stupid question. When it comes to looking for parts for that motor what would I look for? LOL when you go to parts websites and they ask for compatibility they usually don't have a pull-down option to specify a stroked 2005 tc88 with a 103 top-end Screamin Eagle CNC heads with manual compression release cuz I'm sure you've noticed they usually either just list 2000 to 2005 Softail portable break it down into 88, 96, 103. Seems like I would just have to guess depending on the part and play the lottery hoping I chose the right thing. It also almost seems like I would need 2 manuals for engine specs vs the rest. I would hate to open up the cam chest on this and get excited to order new cams then get the wrong ones.

I noticed while shopping for a Harley manual that they have separate or additional manual for a 2005 CVO Fatboy that comes with the Screamin Eagle 103. I'm wondering if maybe I should get that one either in addition to or instead of the regular General one but just comes labeled as 2005 Softail models.

 

The only real difference between the CVO and non-CVO engines are displacement, heads, and cams. Cases, TB, exhaust, etc are all the same. Your engine uses non CVO heads, and you'll need to pull the cams to see what they are.

 

A stock TC88 with good ring seal will push static CR to about 175 psi; a 103, regardless of configuration will push static CR much higher. IIRC, the SE CNC ported head chambers should be 85cc, same as all stock 88 and 96 heads. Measuring stroke through the spark plug hole is measuring on a diagonal axis and will show a measurement longer than if measured on a vertical axis that is perpendicular to the top of the piston. JMHO but am thinking what you may have is a TC88 with CNC ported heads and perhaps a set of cams.

I know, it's just a WAG and the only way I think the OP will know for sure what he is dealing with will be to pull the heads, measure the bore and stroke and open the cam chest to ID the cams. As usual; JMHO.

 

as much as I hate to admit it I think you AR probably right about pulling it down to find out. If not I'm always going to question it. Right after my last response I realized that the instructions I read for a compression test we're not the normal way of doing it so my numbers for that are probably way off. When I test a compression instructions I read said to do it cold so I tested the motor after it had been sitting outside in 30 and 40 degree weather without even starting it up first. Those instructions also didn't mention pulling the fuse for the fuel injection like the ones I've read since. I'm not sure how much of a difference that could make but I can imagine that it might actually be a pretty big difference. I am a little more confident with the stroke measurement but still not confident enough that I would consider it fact we used a super straight piece of pipe solder that was quite a bit smaller than the spark plug hole so that we could try to minimize the angle and keep it going as straight as possible. I was just talking to my buddy and told him I think my best bet might just be to redo the compression test and maybe take it to the local shop to have them see what it does on the dyno just to have another datapoint. I would think just too put it on the dyno and not actually modify anyting shouldn't cost much maybe an hour or so of shop time.

I figure I would be better off doing it that way and just getting as much data as possible and actually riding this season then tear it down this winter when I won't be in a rush to get it put right back together that way if I don't like what I find I can just order parts and do everything at once.

 

Unless the cases have been split or replaced, there's no way you have a 103 in that bike. A 103 requires a crank change from factory oem crank.

As I originally said, you most probably have a 95 inch motor with Stage III mods. The biggest question is really what cam/lifters/pushrods do you have. Hopefully, the pushrods are one piece, based on the SE heads.

As others have stated, the true dual exhaust is a contributor to low bottom end torque. Also, since this is a B motor, it will not build rpm the same as an A motor due to the extra rotational mass of the balancer. Because of the SE heads, I suspect the cam will be a HP build cam, not a low end torque cam: ported heads are needed for high rpm flow, not so much for low end torque.

You want more low end torque, ditch the true dual exhaust & install a torque cam. If you want bragging rights about your build, dyno tune what you have. If you really need to know your build specifics, plan to spend some money; pull the heads & open the cam chest to inspect what's in there.

Otherwise just ride it & enjoy.