Twin Cam Motors Twin Cam 1998 thru 2017

'03 TC88 winter checkup (previously t 26 torx?)

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  #41  
Old 08-20-2021, 05:02 PM
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With no wear on the cam plate, why replace it? The early OEM cam plate is adequate for what you are planning, including a pair of bolt in cam; like the Andrews 21 o3 26. Honestly, I can't tell from the photos if I would replace the oil pump; gerotors look OK to me. The scoring in the pump looks worse but I would have to see/feel it to make the call to replace. I might just buff them up and use them. However, if you want to replace the pump, OEM is suitable but when I search that PN it shows up obsolete. However, there are after market options like Daytona and Twin Power.
https://kcint.com/high-volume-high-p...6-103-31-67085.

There is a work around to R/R of outer cam bearings to the cams and cam plate. You will need to R/R the outer bearings on the cams first. I have attached some photos taht should help explain the DIY work around for what you need to do. This is not that challenging; just takes patience and tools. Tools shown are not expensive and available at Harbor Freight. Look at the pictures, do some searching on the "oven freezer method for harley" and lots of information will show up. It is quite common for cams, with bearings, to fall out of the cam plate or can be removed with a tap from a rubber dead blow hammer. Once out, use the tools to R/R the bearing from the cams and once that is done, use the oven-freezer method to install the cam/bearing assembly into the cam plate while making sure the timing marks on the inner cam sprockets are aligned. If the cams do fall out of the cam plate, when installing, applyh a little bit of Loctite 609 to the bearing bore in the cam plate. Good luck and keep us posted.


 
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Last edited by djl; 08-20-2021 at 05:08 PM.
  #42  
Old 08-20-2021, 06:21 PM
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Not sure I like the pic of using the bearing knives to drive on the bearing.. IMO the hammer and socket would be better.
 
  #43  
Old 08-20-2021, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PaperBag
Oh, fer....

I'm BAAACK. Sadly, things have not gone well. This little project has undertaken much MUCH more time than I had anticipated, even taking into consideration my moderate mechanical skills.

I had to take time out to settle my retirement plans. I sold a property my late wife and I had bought in order to fund said retirement - it has fulfilled it's purpose. My financial guy and I made up plans to hopefully take care of me, also utilizing some funds I had set up years ago. (This will become important later in this post.) I quit my parts delivery driver job which was taking up the bulk of my work day to be able to accept more work in my chosen profession, and THAT unexpectedly exploded in July - in reality, a good thing for the old cash flow. I had a MINOR stroke a couple weeks ago, and although I'm "OK," I have the obligatory PT. There's more but I won't bore you....

Sometimes life comes at you fast.

So. I recently got back to it. I've installed the Toyo inner cam bearings using the MDS tool. That went pretty well. I went to the local HD store to get gaskets and o-rings, basically the cam chest kit. While there, during conversation, the parts guy told me the store will not work on my bike because "we don't work on anything older than an '04." He also informed that based on his learned opinion, I should get new cams and cam plate bearings "because I had them out of the bike." No mention of wear or anything, I should do it just because.

He also wanted me to upgrade to the hydraulic plate because of the added benefits of better oil flow, better replacement intervals for the shoes, etc. I didn't ask him if the shop would be willing to install the upgrade, seeing as they don't work in '03s, lol.

BUT NOW, I'm resigning myself to just that. I inspected the oil pump before I decided to get any further, and discovered scoring in the body and on the outer rotors. See pix.






Sorry for the iPhone photos, but I think you'll see the problem. There is no wear on the cam plate itself. I shudder to think what made the marks in the pump body, but I found no detritus in the cam cavity, and nothing when I earlier drained the oil. Just FWIW, the inner and outer tensioner shoes had noticeable wear, enough to be replaced, but were still intact, no pieces missing or chunked off.

Because of the way my finances are now set up, I have a limited amount of cash I *could* throw at a new, upgraded plate w/bearings and oil pump. I could also throw in new cams, I suppose. I see the Feuling and Screamin' Eagle plate kits - I'm open to anyone's opinions on either.

Finally, can anyone recommend a competent tech in the southern NH area to press bearings on a new plate if I go that route? Seeing as the shop won't wrench on my scoot, I will need to find one, regardless.

Thanks, everyone, for hanging in there with me. As always, I greatly appreciate everyone's time and suggestions!
At the mileage and age, replace the tensioners with cyco, replace the lifters, add rockouts, drill rocker supports, change inner bearings and cam bearings, change the gaskets down through. Naturally, hydraulic or gears are a better long term solution, I think you’ll be fine doing the tensioners, etc. I’m not in southern NH, rather south central VT if ya get jammed up.
 
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  #44  
Old 08-21-2021, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Not sure I like the pic of using the bearing knives to drive on the bearing.. IMO the hammer and socket would be better.
Good point and I don't disagree. However, if the bearing knives are situated properly on the inner race; all should be OK, particulalry if cam frozen and bearing heated. Good to give the OP another and simpler option may save him buying tools that he doesn't need. My main point is that there are work arounds for DIY applilcation that save time and money.
 
  #45  
Old 09-27-2021, 01:17 PM
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I'm back at it again. Sometimes life happens. It has been an exercise in humility.

I'm now at a point where I could remove and inspect the cleaning plug and oil pressure relief valve from the cam plate.
I have not removed the cams from the plate.

The manuals I have, factory and Clymer, flush the plate with solvent, I'm not doing that....
Is it advised/recommended/unnecessary at this point to pull these plugs to inspect them and their bores? Why wouldn't I?

Neither mention any lubrication upon reassembly, but I'm thinking some assembly lube on the valve piston and a light coat of oil on the gasket for the cleaning plug might work?

And so it goes....
 
  #46  
Old 09-27-2021, 05:22 PM
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Unless there is debris floating in the oil; don't see it in your situation, no need to flush the cam plate. Blowing compressed air through the passages is quite adequate. Polish the relief valve piston to insure it will move freely in the bore; nothing else is necessary.
 
  #47  
Old 03-21-2022, 03:01 PM
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And so it goes. Resurrecting the thread because - I am progressing! Slowly but surely. Life continues to happen, and I tinker when I can....

The cam plate/oil pump assembly is back in, no problems. Now to install the outer chain and sprockets! Oh, wait, The bolts listed in the HD 2003 Softail Models Parts Catalog have the number 25533-99A for a "kit." The manual wants me to use new bolts & washers, of course.

I called the nearer-to-me HD boutique in Manchester, NH and spoke to parts. The guy basically told me those numbers are obsolete but the aftermarket might have something. OK, thanks. I then called Laconia HD. The parts guy said, yes, the numbers are obsolete, BUTT the corresponding parts for the newer 88B engines will fit. I have a call into an indie tech I recently used for a different job to see what he says.

What is the wisdom of the list? Would the "new" parts work, or should I just go aftermarket and not look back. I would rather use HD parts, but if I can't get the proper ones....

Once again I'm at an impasse. Well, for the time being, anyway. TIA for any/all input.
 
  #48  
Old 03-21-2022, 07:59 PM
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You can reuse the OEM sprocket bolts; have done it many times and have never used new. Those bolts are torqued to 25 ft.lb and 35 ft.lb respectively which is not enough to "stretch" them hence no need to replace them. Clean the threads up, run a thread chaser (not a tap) to clean the thread bores, apply a bit of blue Loctite and torque to spec.
 
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  #49  
Old 04-11-2022, 10:21 AM
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Slowly, slowly, grasshopper....

Cam plate installed! New rear cam and crank bolts & washers obtained. Question for the ones who know:

What *thread chasers* do I need before I install the bolts, i.e., sizes? I could buy a whole kit, but being on a budget, yada yada, the two proper sizes will serve for now.

I deeply appreciate all who have commented and helped me in this PROJECT over the last many months. It's slowly coming together!
 
  #50  
Old 04-11-2022, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PaperBag
Slowly, slowly, grasshopper....

Cam plate installed! New rear cam and crank bolts & washers obtained. Question for the ones who know:

What *thread chasers* do I need before I install the bolts, i.e., sizes? I could buy a whole kit, but being on a budget, yada yada, the two proper sizes will serve for now.

I deeply appreciate all who have commented and helped me in this PROJECT over the last many months. It's slowly coming together!
AAAND - I got the appropriate chasers! Easier than I anticipated. Thanks for reading!
 


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